2021 US Road Trip
Colonial Williamsburg
Biltmore Estate
Parks and gardens are always a good idea.
Route 30 through Adirondacks
There is a pleasure in the pathless woods; There is a pleasure on the lonely shore; There is society, where none intrudes, By the deep sea, and the music in its roar; I love not man the less, but Nature more”
Lord Byron
Rules of the Road for Foodies
Never order cottage cheese. Or enjoy a wine spritzer…even alone.
Grand Tetons
The Mountains are calling and I must go.
John Muir
New York
Sunday in the Park
“Because Poetry and Hums aren’t things which you get, they’re things which get you. And all you can do is to go where they can find you.”
House at Pooh Corner
Central Park
Dancing of the autumn leaves on the surface of a lake is a dream we see when we are awake.
Mehmet Ilan
Broadway
Every once in awhile we get a moment when all the world needs us to do is just stand there and sparkle. Dinner before seeing Tina on Broadway.
Berkshires
Entering new territory with the wind whistling past my ears….
Route 2 through New Hampshire and Vermont
When I told my teachers I wanted to be an adventurer, a lot of them encouraged me to be more realistic. So I rode away on my magical winged horse, spraying faerie dust behind me, laughing manically as I went.
M.E. Vaughan
Mexico
Cozumel Coati
Indigenous to the island, these rascal’s long snouts come in handy when sipping cocktails poolside.
Occidental Cozumel
San Francisco Beach near Palancar reef system.
Therapy after stressful day
Reservations can be made at three ala carte restaurants on site but you are warned that dress is “formal”. Mildly alarmed, I ask what this means and am told that men and women are required to wear shirts. Check.
Coconuts Restaurant
Many years ago if a woman showed her “coconuts” in the bar of this restaurant, she was given a free drink. It’s legacy in a name.
Heaven on Earth
I believe in God, I just call it nature. Frank Lloyd Wright
Netherlands
A Room With A View
The Netherlands, according to the UN, is the 4th happiest country in the world. There are lots of theories for why this is but the one I like best is that a dense population living in a country this small must learn how to tolerate and cooperate with each other for harmonious co-habitation. I experienced the extraordinary kindness of the Dutch almost immediately upon arrival. For example, I had been communicating with the host of my apartment from the airport through Whatsapp for coordination of arrival and check in. All was fine until I got to the apt. and lost my WiFi connection and absent of this, an inability to let my host, Luc, know I had arrived. A young man passing by observed my distress, and asked if he could help. After I explained my predicament, he created a hot spot that enabled me to text Luc. But now Luc is not responding and I begin to panic. My kind and good Samaritan tries to call from his phone and when he does not get an answer, he asks if I have confirmation of the lodging on my phone to see if it might include an apt. #…it did and he then buzzed the call button to which Luc answers! This guy stood by my side until he met Luc and saw me safely escorted inside.
Keukenhof Gardens
7 million flower bulbs, rhizomes and tubers are planted annually on almost 80 acres to create a spectacle of tulips accented with hyacinths, daffodils, irises and other spring flowering blooms. The fragrance perfuming the air with heavenly scents is worth the price of admission alone… but the multitude of carpets beautifully coordinated with complementary colors is a true knock out. An additional plus: the 20 minute bus ride from Leiden offers views of fields with brightly colored ribbons of blooming tulips.
continuation of first column
That’s the thing about travel – angels always come to your aide when you need them most. But the Dutch DNA seems to make them particularly good at it. The following day I’m at the train station attempting to navigate travel to Amsterdam. Trying to get my arms around trains, trams, and buses necessary for doing so was daunting but the friendly, patient agent walked me through it until a gameplan was devised. I turned to leave to catch my train and was horrified to find 5 people now standing in line because of the time I had taken. To my surprise however, they were all smiling, and the first in line shouted “You did it!” I did my best impression of a Rocky victory dance in response with a salute in appreciation for their welcoming kindness.
Bubbels, Wit, Rood
Leiden is basecamp for my 2 week visit in the Netherlands and is considered a foodie hub. The picture above is the first offering of a 4 course meal at Crabbetje which manages to make even eel and herring taste divine. After being greeted by the restaurant owner, I ask him if he had a seating for “dinner for one”. He winked and said, “let’s put you at a table for two so everyone will think you are waiting for someone.” Apparently it is a comedian’s hub as well.
Van Gogh Museum
I think this may be my favorite museum in the world. What a body of work – the Potato Eaters, Wheatfields with Crows, Sunflowers, Almond Blossoms, Irises, Tree Roots, Skeleton with Burning Cigarette…all spellbinding testaments to this man’s vision. The museum was also hosting a special exhibit called Van Gogh and Olives Groves which included paintings like the one above. This museum’s layout and curation is a moving reminder of the mysterious fine line between genius and madness.
The Merry Drinker - Frans Hals
The Rijksmuseum is home to paintings by the Dutch Masters…one of the most famous is Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. It also has a Michelin star restaurant that I thought I could saunter into for lunch. NOT! Must be booked weeks in advance. But an alternative plan to grab a sandwich and head for the throughway under museum where acoustics make for the loveliest music from incredibly talented individuals just as great, if not better.
Delft on King's Day
King’s Day is a major holiday for almost everyone except those who work in the transportation and restaurant industries. And everyone takes this one seriously…or I should say happily. I was warned to stay away from Amsterdam due to the intensity of the crowds so I went to Delft instead…which was holding its own in the “packed in” department. This is the one day that you are not required to have a permit to sell your “stuff” so the streets are lined with people unloading their – well let’s just say- one man’s junk is another man’s treasure. Music – from big bands to street entertainers- fills the air along with confetti being dropped from church steeples. Most everyone is dressed in orange and there’s lots of orange colored food too. The next day large crews of street cleaners were everywhere scrubbing sidewalks, picking up litter and emptying trash cans….quite as impressive a production.
Bicycles
I suppose a word must be said about the Dutch’s favorite mode of transportation. There are more bikes than there are people in the Netherlands and rather than car lots, the central stations have underground racks for up to 10,000 bikes and from what I can tell, all the stands are full. Children, dogs, or groceries are carried along in crates attached to the front and/or back of a bike. There’s even a profession called “bike fishing” – after a hard night of partying, a huge number of bikes end up in the canals and these pros throw out lines with hooks to haul them out…
England
St James Park
As bikes are to the Netherlands, parks are to England – they’re everywhere-making, in my humble opinion, this country the backdrop for fairytales. St James is right next to the Buckingham Palace and is a conservation habitat for about 600 wildlife species. Guests are encouraged to listen for the scratchy song of a reed warbler but I found the boisterous honks of the pelicans much more entertaining.
Great Dixter House and Gardens
That’s me ( you can see I have finally gotten my hair under control ) with my nephew Daniel and his partner Lukka. Daniel is one of 6 nursery managers for what is considered one of the finest gardens in the British Isles. It was conceived by Nathaniel Lloyd in 1910 and designed by one of the finest garden makers in the world, Fergus Garrett. The revered garden, south of London in Sussex, contains several “rooms” of plants flowering abundantly in wild and unique tapestries of seasonal color. Great Dixter has its own nursery, meadows, woodland and farmland along with an historic, Tudor home with all its original furnishings on the property. Although the house is not open to the public, Daniel was able to provide us with a tour.
Stonehenge and Salisbury
My taxi driver commented on the way to Stonehenge that he didn’t know what the big deal was – ” it’s just a bunch of stones in an open field” – but I think you have to marvel that over 5,000 years ago people were able to erect these large boulders to establish a circle that reflected the sun’s light. I was hoping for some kind of mystical experience but it’s hard to achieve when you’re surrounded with tourists taking selfies. The real magic came later when visiting the stunning cathedral of Salisbury where women were preparing for a flower show the next day. The old pub “New Inn” serves a chicken, leek, and ham pie that was also “out of this world”.
Eye candy across the ages
The National Gallery on Trafalgar Square was hosting a special exhibition of Raphael’s work. I didn’t realize that, in addition to being a great painter, he was also a gifted architect, archaeologist, and designer. (His tapestries hanging near Michelangelo’s frescoed ceiling in Sistine chapel earned him about 5 times what “M” received ) The above portrait is an example of the Venetian practice of posing a sitter as if interrupted so that turning to meet your gaze gives you sense of social discomfort and fleeting intimacy- or call it what it is baby, arousal! The gallery’s collection of paintings from the Impressionists is to die for and I think the museum does a good job of linking the artists personal stories to their work making these masterpieces even more meaningful.
Blue Boy
Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy also returned to its home at the National Gallery after being on loan for several years. After leaving the gallery, I spent some time at the nearby St Martin’s on the Field before returning to Trafalgar Square to people watch. On this particular day people were representing the colors of the world by drawing flags of countries they represented with chalk. A kind of “spiritual fix” for what ails you day!
Bath
Famous for the Roman Baths, Bath also has a literary vibe as it is where Mary Shelly wrote Frankenstein and Jane Austin wrote several of her novels. Sally Lunn found it a safe haven from religious persecution in France and established a pub which still serves her famous trenchers – a bread that substituted for a plate before they were invented in the 1500’s. The trencher is topped with meat and rolled up so that the two items are consumed simultaneously. (Maybe that’s where the expression lick your plate comes from?) A walk along River Avon, pictured above, after visiting the Royal Crescents and sitting in the cathedral courtyards listening to musicians take advantage of the acoustics, completes a day steeped in inspirational history.
Cotswolds
Castle Combe, pictured above, was one of the locations for the filming of Steven Spielberg’s War Horse. Picture perfect villages make up the fairy tale quality of this beautiful county. Nearby Lacock was also a filming location for Pride and Prejudice and its medieval abbey used for the Harry Potter movies. The abbey was established by Ela, Countess of Salisbury, the most powerful woman of the middle ages after marrying the illegitimate son of Henry II and becoming sheriff of Salisbury while he was on crusade. After Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, the abbey became the country home of Sir William Sharington. This was after William spent time in the tower of London for involvement in a plot against Edward VI. Add to that, somewhere in the Sharington line, William Harry Talbot is born and invents the first photographic negative. Doesn’t this just scream a HBO mini series??
Tower of London
The Beefeaters, pictured above, offer incredible tours as might be expected – to become a “beefy” guard, you must have served in the armed forces for a minimum of 22 years and received good conduct medals. 37 of them, along with their families, live on the premises and every one I met was a performing storyteller extraordinaire. They share the space with ravens who also “guard” the tower and are rewarded with a daily consumption of 170g raw meat and biscuit treats soaked in blood. There’s the crowned jewels, chapel where Anne Boleyn is buried, walk along the tower walls and the deliciously wicked bloody tower to consume hours of your time…before crossing the London Bridge, strolling the river walk, munching at the Borough Market, seeing the Old Globe and then regretting a lack of time for also taking in the Tate Modern!
York
The Shambles in York is a medieval street with overhanging timber framed buildings dating as far back as the 14th century. Shambles is actually an obsolete term for open air slaughterhouses and meat markets. However, I arrived on a Saturday and experienced a 21st century version of a meat market with crowds so thick it was hard to maneuver my way through the street. I left to climb the city walls. In retrospect, I wish I had skipped York and gone straight to the Lake District for more time there. Unfortunately anxiety and apprehension were my shadows in York. I foolishly thought I could drive through the Yorkshire countryside to explore some of the areas I’d seen in All Creatures Great and Small. NOT! I wasn’t two blocks out of car rental lot before wiping out the left side mirror and side door, and at a traffic light, have a man come running up to window screaming “Are you crazy or drunk?? You’re scaring everyone!!!” I finally made it to my airbnb with sweat pouring out my body but was welcomed by sympathetic hosts who offered to drive me to the local pub and bus station for tours when needed. Unfortunately driving to Grassington and the Dales was out of the question and the entire time I was there, dread lived with me in anticipation of the drive to the Lake District which was as hideous and terrifying as I imagined it would be. This was made even worse when the car’s navigation conked out and it took three hours to find the place to drop the car off. I was so upset when I finally arrived that the manager waived the charge for the damage I had done to the car!
Blenheim Palace
Birthplace of Winston Churchill, this eloquent establishment is beautiful just to walk through with interpretive exhibits helping you to imagine the lifestyles of the generations who have lived here. For example, there’s a live jousting match, a display of the clothes fashioned for the film, The Favorite, an educational exhibit of Churchill’s upbringing and partying here, and perhaps my favorite, the banquet room complete with recipes for food served like this one: “Take a peacock that must be freshly killed and plucked dry, then cut off wings but leave head with plume attached. Pull out entrails, blood clots and sprinkle breasts and thighs with seasonings. Cover body with pastry with head sticking out.” And if this doesn’t have your mouth watering, try raised pies with skinned and boned swan, eels, hare, or quail, seasoned with lard, bacon, and covered with potatoes, butter and pastry. Ladies weren’t considered accomplished if they couldn’t draw, embroider, sing, play harpsichord or fake finding above mentioned pies delicious.
Oxford Walking tour
Oxford was my base camp for the two week stay in England. About an hour from everything by train, it’s a lively university town ( I was there for a bank holiday and must have seen 3-4 brides walk by from my perch at a restaurant on George Street one Saturday night ) Absolutely loved a walking tour of the university led by a cocky student with an irreverent sense of humor who shared the past and present history of the magnificent buildings on campus. We lucked out and entered one of the cathedrals where a man was playing a century old organ – incredible. Pictured above are massa or morris dancers taking a break – I have videos in Vblog section of these guy’s choreographed use of sticks and swords – spectacular!
British Museum
You can spend a day here and not see everything – pictured above is an ancestral figure from Easter Island…it’s one of many highlights this museum has to offer. I spent a lot of time in the Trust Gallery which explores how people from around the world seek well being in the face of illness and suffering.
Lake District
Loved, loved, loved the Lake District. I stayed at a place called Grangefield in Thornthwaite village which is a minute walk from a bus stop that takes you to Keswick, a transportation hub to all the lakes in the western district and about 10 minute walk to Derwentwater Lake (which was Beatrix Potter’s inspiration for her book, The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin. ) I also visited Buttermere Lake – (the mountain scenery on the road there is worth the journey alone ) and would have liked an extra day to see Grasmere Lake and village. The restaurants are extraordinary as are the taverns where tables are squished so close together mates on each side are new best friends by the end of the evening.
Portobello Market
I strolled Portobello Market, Nottinghill and Holland Park with Daniel and Lukka – all a feast of color, smells and entertainment.
Scotland
Edinburgh Castle
I was completely captivated by Edinburgh. The first day, I walked the Royal Mile – from the Holyrood Palace ( also called Buckingham North) to the castle at the top ( the above picture was taken in its Great Hall built by James IV to host banquets and ceremonies ) – seemed pretty small for such “to -do’s” but when you look at the armor of their warriors, kind of makes sense that they wouldn’t need too big a space for such little guys. Lunch followed at the Witchery -named for the hundreds of witches burned at the stake at nearby Castlehill in the 16th and 17th century. The walk down the mile is filled with street entertainers, great shops, cathedrals, and century old buildings. A feast for the senses.
Easter Street
This is Twelve Triangles, one of many fabulous coffee shops on Easter street about a 5 minute walk from where I stayed. Another favorite was Little Fitzroy. These were my morning hangouts before heading out for the day and as typical of the friendly nature of the Scottish, every morning, I’d be greeted with – “how did you like ( whatever I told them I was going to see the previous day)” – and then a suggestion or two about what to see based on my enthusiasms regarding sites I’d seen. As an aside, I’m in Ireland as I write this and like all, dumbstruck by the tragedy of yet another mass shooting at a school ( it’s all the taxi drivers want to talk about – how could this happen in USA!!) The senselessness of this is really hitting hard this time. In both Scotland and Ireland it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to get a handgun. In Ireland, last year, they had 11 deaths by gunfire as a result. In Scotland, the police don’t carry guns – cuz they don’t need to. And as I listen to Marjorie Taylor Green sound off about the need for “God” not “gun control” to resolve the insanity of mass shootings, I want to weep.
Dean Village
While most people think it a “must do” to climb Arthur’s Seat, eat a haggis and drink single malt whiskey. I nixed all that in favor of time spent in this quaint little hamlet only a 10 minute walk from Edinburgh. It’s located near Water of Leith ( a stroll along this river bank is beautiful and seems to be popular with locals – joggers, oldsters, hipsters, and a pre-school class- shared the path) and is right next to the trendy, artsy Stockbridge neighborhood.
The Dome
This was a perfect place to spend my last night in my most favorite of cities. The Dome used to be a commercial bank before becoming a restaurant with a courtly ambiance that serves as a backdrop for the royal treatment one receives while dining there. I’d just spent the afternoon doing a Mercat tour ( highly recommend – 10 times better than highly touted Mary Kings Close tour which is good but doesn’t come close to this one. ) A really talented guide with the skills of a great actress takes you into the underground vaults below the city for a history of who lived there and why. Above ground buildings were crammed together given the little space they had to build on and were upwards to 14 stories tall with 3 – 4 families living in one room. All inhabitants used the same pot to relieve themselves so Gardyloo ( french for “mind the water”) was a warning cry when a family member was getting ready to throw slops from the windows into the streets below. In 1689 the Nastiness Act degreed one could only throw shit out at 7am and 10pm to make the timing of strolling on the streets a little less risky.
Inverness
Pictured above is a “Scot’s breakfast” – baked beans, buttered mushrooms, fried egg, toast, tomatoes, hash browns, sausages, ham and not seen, fresh orange juice, tea or coffee ( in this case, made from french press) cereal, yogurt, pastries, butter and jam. This was served by the owner of Averon house where I stayed – a man who I couldn’t help but smile when I looked at him because he reminded me of a leprechaun…or, depending on his mood, the priest in the movie The Quiet Man with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. Twinkling blue eyes and a wee bit of a tale teller, he kept soup on the stove in case you came back from the pub hungry ( I took a peak at the soup one night out of curiosity and it appeared to include breakfast leftovers such as beans, ham, sausages etc. -bless his heart) He gave me a box of Scottish biscuits to take with me on the train to Glasgow and offered to wrap up some sandwiches as well – wish I had taken a picture of him waving goodbye from his front yard as I walked away as he symbolizes the heart of Scotland for me.
MacGregors
“While there’s leaves in the forest, and foam on the river, MacGregor, despite them, shall flourish forever.” Sir Walter Scott. In addition to a Sunday roast, ( roast beef, yorkshire pudding and tons of gravy ) this pub treats you to “Sunday sessions” – when a core group of about 8 musicians start playing fiddles and then are joined one by one over the course of an hour by other players for spontaneous and completely rollicking Scottish folk music. The whole place comes alive with handclapping and jigs. A wee bit of Scottish magic that can only be described as happy heaven.
Ireland
Dublin with Thomas
I met Thomas in his home turf of Dublin. He took me to O’Neil’s – a perfect Irish pub with a dark wooden interior befitting an establishment of the 15th century, great Irish music, and the best pub meal which only cost 10 euros! Hard to believe because it was so good and so plentiful – chalk it up to the luck of the Irish! Speaking of luck, Thomas was able to arrange a visit with a doctor to get my exemption for yellow fever vaccine as well as create images needed for African Visa application which was subsequently approved. This man entered my orbit as a result of his friendship with Jim, and now I consider him me bro as well!
Kilkenny
This is a medieval town – pictured above is medieval mile – a long stretch of old taverns and shops which leads to the Kilkenny castle, black abbey, lots of beautiful cathedrals, buck’s slip etc. I’m starting to get my “travel legs” now with a little more experience on how to navigate a new place to see and do as much as I can. The “intro drill” includes find hotel, dump luggage, get to tourist office for map, site recommendations, and location of hop on/off bus for orientation to city, compare to early research, determine itinerary and what to explore on own or best done on tour. I’m still not at the top of my game or what would be considered a “seasoned” traveler and missed some great sites as a result. But 3 months in and I’m getting a “rhythm” that comes with confidence and a bit of experience- even a few “tourists” are now starting to ask me for directions…a good sign that my aura was exuding “gal in the know”!
Kinsale
This seaport’s colorful streets make it a cheerful place to stroll – the village is so small that it’s really easy to find your way around. The restaurants are small and “homey” and most have live music.
Looks like Mediterranean!
This is the Scilly Walk in Kinsale which takes you to Fort Charles – but I was distracted from my intended destination by the Bullman – an award winning pub about midway there. It was a beautiful, sunny Friday afternoon so there were lots of folks enjoying a late lunch here – my favorite group were 6 guys who might have been work buddies as they represented all ages but had the familiarity of people who spend a good deal of time together. They were telling each other delightful yarns with that wonderful Irish accent – as the “rounds” increased so did the raunchiness of their jokes – like this one “What’s the worst thing your wife can tell you – answer- “I’m late”. That almost brought the house down but it was when one of them burst into the song, “Make Someone Happy” sounding just like Jimmy Durante, that not a dry eye was left in the house.
Killarney
I arrived on Saturday – the weekend of a big soccer game between two major rival teams which also meant 20,000 people had descended on the town. I took off for Killarney National Park to see Muckross House originally built by Henry Herbert when he married his wife, Mary Balfour. The above lake is the view from the home’s living room. It’s a gorgeous place with an interesting history – the original owners went bankrupt and the home was purchased by a member of the Guiness brewing company who then sold it to a wealthy American, William Bourn – who also owns Fioli in Woodside, CA! There’s a docent in most of the rooms adept at telling “insider” stories – I particularly loved the guy in the basement’s kitchen who compares the lifestyle of the gentry living above with the working conditions of the servants below. With no upward mobility possible, the majority of these workers saved their money to come to America to become maids, cops and eventually politicians. There are also three traditional working farms on the property demonstrating operations for the poor, middle class, and very wealthy. I came back to town to find a huge party of sport revelers spilling out into the streets!
Galway
This is the River Corrib where fisherman can catch salmon upstream ( I saw one at work!) This area is right around the corner from the Latin Quarter – which is on the medieval streets of Shop, High and Quay. While this was a “quiet” Monday, the restaurants were bursting at the seams. I took a city tour and found out that plans are in place to expand the harbor so that cruise ships can enter. ( will be ruin of city – boohoo!) Also along the river is the Galway Cathedral – finished in the 1960’s but built to look like a 15th century place of worship. John F. Kennedy was to dedicate it but sadly assassinated just a few weeks before his scheduled arrival.
Belgium
Bruges
Beautiful, charming Bruges!! You’ll not find any franchises here ( it’s rumored there’s a McDonald’s somewhere but I didn’t see it). There are fresh annual flowers everywhere – I get how the ones in window sills of shops are taken care of but the ones along the canals, who overseas their health?? For great treatment they get – all vibrant and colorful – a really beautiful contribution to the charm of this city. The above picture is taken at Rozenhocdkaai – the most photographed spot in the city- for good reason.
Damme
You can take a 35 minute boat ride down a canal or cycle the canal’s adjoining paths to Damme from Bruges. The scenery along the way is great — actually saw some border collies herding sheep! Damme is a well preserved city oozing charm from every cobblestone road and historic building. Pictured above is a part of the moat that used to protect the city which now looks like a magical tree tunnel. This place is ideal for a long lunch after checking out the gothic town hall and cathedral.
Dinant
That’s the citadel in the background on top of the mountain. You can climb 408 steps or take a cable car to get there – guess what mode of transportation I chose. The Dutch constructed it in 1819 to defend Belgium and the Netherlands as an united state against the French. The history is interpreted really well and the views of the city are stunning. Below is in foreground is the cathedral – it amazes me that architects were able to conceive of something this majestic and engineer its construction without the aide of technology.
France
Reims, Dijon, Amboise and Paris
Notre Dame or Reims Cathedral
This bad boy is responsible for Reim’s nickname “coronation city” – having been the site for where kings were crowned in France. The honors were given to 33 rulers in just over 1000 years. Now listed an UNESCO World Heritage site, just entering and sitting for awhile gives you a sense of the majesty of its past.
Ruinart Champagne House
If the tour includes visiting chalk cellars, know that many steps will be involved….many, many, many steps. In this particular house ( one of the oldest) there are 100 – I know because I counted each one as I panted my way to the top. Reims is home to many famous champagne houses – all hundreds of years old and many started by monks. I visited Mumm, Taittinger, G.H. Martel, Pommery, Demoiselle, Lanson and missed Veuve Cluequot because tours were sold out. Every house produces sparkling wine according to very strict standards which is why the label “champagne” can only be assigned to wines made here.
B.H. Martel
Drinking champagne can be a family affair! When I first saw this baby in tow, I thought bitterly – who brings a kid on a champagne tasting tour- and this experience is going to be ruined in about 30 minutes when “little muffin” gets bored and starts to wail. I silently huffed and puffed….but I couldn’t have been more wrong! The kid was adorable and a keen observer of all going around him. “Dad” congratulated him on doing a good job as a tour participant and when we surfaced from the cellar to taste – the babe seemed to concur by using the occasion to reach for a bottle for a swig to celebrate!
Village of Chateauneuf en Auxois
This charming hilltop village is about a 40 minute drive from Dijon and is centered around a 12th century chateau which has been renovated several times to reflect the tastes and times of its owners. The last royal heir was burned alive for poisoning her husband. After it fell from the hands of royalty, wealthy party animals inhabited this gorgeous place and furnishings reflect how a good time was had over the past hundreds of years. The surrounding cobbled streets are lined with half timbered merchant homes of the 12th through 15th centuries each with an incredible view of the auxois region. The Saint Philippe et Saint Jacques church has some of the most splendid statuary!
Wine tasting in Beaune
I booked a tour to do a tasting in the wine capital of Burgundy which limits participants to about 8 people. Totally lucked out as our group was a great fit – two parents from New Jersey visiting their daughter attending school here, a couple from South Korea ( this was their 3rd trip!) a couple from Canada who were experiencing the bliss of young love ( much kissing after the second tasting but not in obnoxious way) and all with a shared appreciation for wine. I highly recommend a guided tour – one, you don’t have to drive but two, you can really enjoy the rolling hills and small towns of this beautiful region. Our french guide was actually a winemaker so a romp in the vineyards was included to learn more about how the grapes are grown. The tour also included a visit to the village Fixin, two tastings (Moilland Grirot and Debray) and lunch in historic Beaune, the birthplace of boeuf bourguignon, escargots, coq au vin and frog legs. The following day while sitting at a cafe in Dijon, I saw the guide again when he was strolled past with his girlfriend. They were kind enough to tell me a bit more about this region and things to do in Dijon. Think I could be happy here for a couple of months in the country here (with a driver!)
Flavigny Sur Ozerain and Semur en Auxios
Flavigny is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France ( it’s where Chocolat was filmed) and a bit of a detour for tourists which translates to less crowds and some quiet time for an imaginative step back in time while walking its picturesque cobbled streets. Foxgloves stand at attention by the doors and windows of homes with gorgeous facades covered in wisteria vines. I was greeted twice by a pairs of young priests dressed in long, black robes on their way to abbeys. One such abbey has been turned into a sweets factory which makes a tiny sugar coated aniseed from a recipe passed down over hundreds of years. Nearby is Semur en Auxois – with more charming cobbled streets, ancient houses with faded shutters and wrought iron balconies along side half timbered houses that might have been an inspiration for an Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale.
Chateau de Amboise
Right in the heart of Amboise, this chateau has a self guided 3-D tour bringing it’s past inhabitants to life to describe living conditions during their time which is way cool. It sits a top the Loire river where a guard’s walkway allowed them to observe boats coming up the river. From there, a succession of rooms were assigned to guards who defended access to the noblemen’s floors – these guys were later referred to as the musketeersis
Chateau du Clos Luce
This was originally a gift from Louis Xl to an ennobled kitchen hand who must have been some cook. Later purchased by Charles Vlll, it became a country home for the kings of France. But this place is particularly special because it eventually became the home of Leonardo da Vinci. In addition to seeing his lovely living quarters, you can peruse his workshops which have all been re-produced to give you a sense of what a genius this self taught country boy was. I was not aware that in addition to being a master painter, he was an expert in botany, civil and military engineering, anatomy, science, and architecture. Pictured above is a small portion of his magnificent garden – an environmentalist, he was an observer of nature as a way to better understand the mysteries of the universe. The property includes a museum where you can learn about his many inventions – including a car! and military tank!
Chateau Chenonceau
Just going from room to room in these chateaus is a trip because their various owners brought such personality to their development. For example, this one happened to be dominated by women – two of which gave it the most character. Diane de Poitiers was a favorite of King Henry ll and renowned for her beauty, intelligence, and business sense. When he gifted her the chateau, she established its gardens which were considered the most spectacular of the time. When the King died, his widow, Catherine de’ Medici, gave Diane the boot, made the gardens more magnificent, and governed France from this location making architectural changes that created a sumptuous lifestyle befitting her young son and future king.
Louvre
This is the room where the Mona Lisa is housed and yes- that’s the mob in line waiting to get up close to view. Needless to say, I elected to pass on this and actually left after about two hours unhappy with how the crowds diminish the experience ( and this was a late Monday afternoon – I can only imagine what it’s like on a weekend! ) I had been here 20 years ago and don’t remember it being so mobbed. Might be a function of age and resulting intolerance of large groups of people or a reflection of the post COVID bombardment. But definitely a place that benefits from getting there as early as possible.
Giverny Gardens
Claude Monet took inspiration from this lily pond for many of his beautiful paintings. You can also tour his home with rooms that have windows all facing the gardens. The nearby little town of Giverny is adorable and a great place for a late lunch at one of its cafes ( not too many of them and surprise! not touristy at all ) This is a happy place.
Montmarth
I signed up for a walking tour for an insider view from a local and it was fantastic. Just up this street in the above picture, is La Maison Rose, a famous restaurant originally established by an enterprising madam. I had made reservations here for lunch after the tour – and because it was poring rain all day, a perfect way to spend some time in this great area of Paris.
Africa
Kenya - Masai Mara
The Masai Mara is in the southern part of Kenya and the northern extension of the Serengeti of Tanzania with the Mara river dividing the two conservation preserves. I went to see the great migration in July when millions of wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles cross the river in search of greener pastures. Pictured above are some zebras crossing single file dodging crocodiles to stay alive!
Masai Mara
This preserve has got to be one of nature’s epic masterpieces. It’s a constantly changing landscape of animals and because of my exceptional guide, I saw most of them up close and personal! Pictured above is a lion who came out from under a bush and headed to the jeep next to us for more shade on this very hot day. He demonstrated absolutely no fear of us – as my guide told me, a “king” doesn’t know this emotion!
The Maasai
The Maasai have communities within the bounds of game preserves Masai Mara and Ngorongoro. Their physical beauty and lithe, graceful physique adorned by colorful shuka and jewelry make them one of the most culturally distinct tribes in Africa. They believe god made cattle especially for them and you see them ( some as young as 4-5 years!) herding them in large numbers along the roads. I visited a village ( the real deal not a tourist fabrication) and met the chief who asked members to do the jumping dance where they gather in semi circle chanting in unison, each taking a turn to jump straight in the air with high energy whoops – the higher the jump, the more attractive they are to a potential wife because it demonstrates their strength. Incredibly friendly ( with possible exception of guy on right) I was invited into the chief’s home ( he actually has two homes – each one built by his two wives) for an interesting conversation about his responsibilities as tribe leader. He had a really sharp wit and a good command of the English language. He seemed very wise and fair to me and much more sophisticated than some of our US “leaders”.
Uganda -Gorilla trekking
The conservation efforts of Bwindi National Park have increased the number of gorillas from approximately 300 to over 1,000 in the last ten years. There are about 19 “families” now and we were organized into groups of 8 very early in the morning to trek the forest with a guide, trackers, and escorts to find an assigned family. It took about 1 1/2 hours to find ours and I will never forget the sight of so many of these primates playing and cuddling with each other or the look of affection a mother gave her 4 month old as he bounced up and down on her. I’m convinced the guy pictured above is going up to take measurements for tree house he’s building. I will also never forget the climb back up the mountain – despite a walking stick and porter to push and pull me, this is one brutally steep trek. But I made it…eventually…to find my driver at the van with arms wide open for a hug and reminder that he told me I could do this. (much to the grins and laughter of my group who recalled my begging for helicopter airlift about half way up mountain!)
Chimpanzee trekking -Kibale National Park
This park is home to 13 different species of primates making it the largest concentration in the world. Again, we were organized in groups of eight and assigned to a guide who indicated it can take from 1-4 hours to find chimps. We found two adorable chimps in 30 minutes because I think we lucked out and got one of the best guides. These two characters were having a breakfast of figs when we discovered them and since they’ve been acclimated since birth to human observers, calmly continued to dine while we watched. I didn’t know this but chimps share 98.7 DNA of humans!
got bananas?
Uganda ranks as the #2 world producer of bananas with 3/4 of the population growing them year round. While driving to parks I saw hundreds of huge trucks packed with banana branches headed to market. These come from larger plantations but the smaller farmers get into the act as well with cooperatives- they take their bananas to staging areas to join other farmers to make a large enough pile to load in a truck and take to market for a fair price. Pictured above are two such farmers with their daily pick of fruit loaded onto bikes, a common method for transporting.
Tanzania - Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Right next door to the Serengeti, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the world’s largest inactive, intact volcano crater. My guide tells me it got it’s name from the sound the bells make on the cattle owned by the neighboring Maasai. He also told me that you will always find zebra and wildebeest hanging out together because zebras face in the opposite direction of the wildebeest to keep a watchful and efficient eye out for predators. The wildebeest have an excellent nose for fresh grass and water and lead the zebras to fertile ground. These two species have thus learned to depend on each other for survival. There are about 25 thousand species that live in the crater- including flamingos! And warthogs! Who are becoming a fast favorite of mine…
Serengeti - The Big Five
The Big Five – elephants, lions, leopards, buffalo, and rhino all live here and we saw all of them but the rhino. Sadly because of heavy poaching in 70’s and 80’s rhinos were almost made extinct but due to conservation efforts there are now about 25 who make this home. Criteria for “Big Five” animals is their inclination to charge when threatened. When my enthusiastic guide got a little too close for viewing buffalo, we definitely got the “look”. This place is truly amazing – animals hang in massive numbers which is a mind boggling site. And I learned a lot about their social behaviors from my guide. There wasn’t a question he didn’t know the answer to AND he got me upgraded to a luxury camp at no cost so I could hear lions roar at night and be greeted by baboons in the morning. Although in my sink there was a spider about the size of a Buick as Woody Allen would say and “something” appeared to be bucking my tent’s canvas walls just before dawn. I felt like it was Christmas while in the Serengeti…every day brought surprising gifts, delightful experiences, and memorable adventures that made for a joyful spirit!
Serengeti - Hippo Kingdom
My guide calls this portion of the river ” hippo kingdom” due to the number of hippos that congregate here. They like to rest near each other in the water but grazing is a solitary activity. ( who has time to be social when you’ve got to put away approximately 80 pounds of grass daily? ) And they’re loud…during the time we watched them, they produced a cacophony of sounds – wheezes, honks, snorts and grumbles while occasionally opening their mouth wide to showcase those teeth which make them such a dangerous animal. My guide told me they kill about 500 Africans annually – either chomping them in half or attacking and capsizing their boats in the river.
Greece
Athens
Korai ( Maidens ) front the Parthenon on the Erechtheion next to the Acropolis. I took a “skip the lines” guided tour that started at 7:30 am to avoid the crowds. The guide was a student of Greek mythology which helped add some really interesting subtext to the purpose of these buildings. In addition to the hilltop views these ancients provide, at the base of its foundation the oldest theatre exists named after Dionysos god of merriment and wine. An additional theatre, Odeon of Herodes Atticus was built in 600 BC to honor his wife with seats to host 6,000 people. It has been re-purposed for live performances throughout the summer. I really loved Athens – it reminded me of what I’ve read about an egregore – a set of concentrated energies when several individuals unite towards the same goal. The energies can take on a life of their own and become an independent deity with powers its believers can use to further their spiritual advancement. I couldn’t help but feel the energies of those ancient Greeks when passing through these sites!
Santorini
Wine tasting at Santo Winery affords a view of the spectacular caldera. There’s no denying that this island is beautiful with volcanic beaches surrounded by an azure colored sea, cliff sides lined with white washed buildings and oh man – that caldera!…. but an concerted effort to cover the internet with stunning photos about 50 years ago to lure visitors and boost the economy of dirt poor island has now saturated the place with tourists. In fairness, I was there during high season where its two star attractions, Fira and Oia, become labyrinths of overpriced restaurants and shops jammed with sun worshippers. My airbnb host told me that the island’s population of 20,000 swells to 300,000 in the months of July and August – a pretty significant increase in peeps. On average, one drunk tourist dies a day from a scooter accident on the narrow roads that traverse the island. Ironically, it really isn’t any more beautiful than the less touristy islands. Just the sad product of some steady marketing hype… inspired me to come… but not return.
Crete
I stayed a little under a week in Chania and then another week in Heraklion and did not want to leave! I loved the beaches, Greek hospitality, and late night activity with locals in the squares. And the restaurants!!! Fantastic! Pictured above is Amomdara beach – one of my favorites. That lounge chair I’m laying on cost $3.50 to rent compared to the $25. I shelled out for the exact same type in Santorini. You can get a great cappuccino for 2 euros and a huge glass of wine for 4 euros. And the beauty of the place…people thought I couldn’t get enough of the beaches because of the variety of vistas offered -the clear blue crystal waters and soft sand….but really it was the lifeguards….those young Greek like gods strolling past were a parade of eye candy that made the natural surroundings pale in comparison.
Spain
Barcelona
Next to the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona is Gaudi central – pictured above is what is considered his masterpiece, La Sagrado Familia – truly awe inspiring – you just have to see it to believe it. I saw most of his major works – Casa Batllo ( looks like an illustration in a Dr. Suess book) Casa Mila and the wonderful Park Guell. These, and the city’s art nouveau architecture, won it the prestigious gold medal by the Royal Institute of British Architects. There’s also the stunning Barceloneta Beach, paellas extraordinaire, and Fideua, a catalan delicioso.
San Sebastian
This city has the most Michelin stars per capita in the world. It’s basque cuisine and pintxos are no doubt part of the reason, however our guide told us that women used to dominate the kitchen and when their sons wanted to learn how to cook as well, they were unceremoniously scooted off the premises. So they did what any enterprising young lad does – set up their own kitchens and teach themselves to become masters at creating dishes that made their mamas sorry. Or so the story goes! The city’s picturesque shoreline, quaint old town and short day trips to fishing villages made me glad my niece, who has lived in Spain, recommend it as a must see on the travel itinerary.
Seville
I think Seville may be my favorite city in Spain. Sure – it’s hot – but its hundreds of small winding streets were built to create shade for walking and manage to keep things relatively cool. The grandeur of the buildings ( turn any corner and you’ll see something incredible ) scent of flowers, and the music of guitars playing in the street made me feel like I was in some kind of Disneyesque version of what a town should be like. Charming neighborhoods like Santa Cruz, serve literally the best tapas of anywhere I’d been to tables filled with sprightly people. And the creative cuisine of the restaurants! Who puts squash and pistachios in ceviche? Restaurante Zelai! Or who leaves chunks of avocado in guacamole – Casa Carmen!
Real Alcazar
This World Heritage Site is a palatial complex surrounded by unique and beautiful gardens. It’s architecture interprets the history of Seville from its Roman origins, to Muslim period and subsequent Christian conquest. Right off the Plaza del Triunto, after a gorgeous walk down the Ave. de Constitucion, this treasure also has the most impressive tile work, fountains, and building structures held by beautifully decorated pillars. It’s a stunner!
Granada
The Alhambra is the crown jewel of Granada and at one point was home to 2,000 residents and a rest stop for approximately 10,000 military personnel. It’s many palace additions and make overs also tell the story of Granada’s rulers with spectacular design and gardens. This picture shows a portion of it…I was on a three hour tour which served as only a brief overview – the remainder of the afternoon was needed to take it all in. Amazing, amazing, amazing!
Flamingo
The neighborhood of Triana in Seville was once occupied by sailors but is now the heart of the flamingo. In Granada they’ll tell you they have the best dancers – in Seville they’ll also make this claim. But what tour guides are quick to point out is that both cities put Madrid to shame….in any event it was fun to learn about the complicated rhythms that allow musicians and dancers to communicate with each other with interpretive messages through movement.
Portugal
Porto
The Douro Valley is the birthplace for port and while I’m not a big fan of this beverage, the landscape is well worth the trip. Porto’s Ribeira and its historic streets plus the walk along the riverfront is unforgettable.
Lisbon
I stayed in the Alfama, one of Lisbon’s oldest districts where nightclubs specialize in Faro – songs of longing and melancholy. There’s a lot hills in Lisbon with steep, grueling inclines so sensible shoes are a must but the views make the climb well worth it. The streets are lined with colorful homes covered from top to bottom with beautiful tiles – after the big earthquake, tiles replaced original artwork as a fast and inexpensive alternative. Artisans were influenced by the Ming Dynasty porcelain design and Dutch delftware so many homes are covered with beautiful blue tiles but later colors that reflect light were used like yellows, ochre, and pinks.
Algarve
The southern coastline of Portugal – Algarve – is home to soft, sandy beaches, picturesque fishing villages, stunning cliffs, and great seafood. I stayed in Lagos and Tavira and Algarve became my second favorite place after Africa. I LOVED the laid back beach vibe and had a fantastic time here. Pictured above is Playa Santa Ana- one of many wonderful beaches along the coast. Also they are known for Pastel de Nata – and irrespective of what you order for breakfast, this delicious pastry comes along for the ride. My airbnb host also turned me on to Doce Fino. Ahhhh…the cruelty of living in a foodie haven where swimsuits are the norm!
Italy
Tuscany
Siena was my home base while staying in Tuscany. 17 districts, each distinguished by a symbolic animal like a rhino, porcupine or she-wolf for example, surround this beautiful and historic town. Each district has its own church, museum, fountain, public square a.k.a. gathering place, and representative banner. The districts compete through a horse race twice a year ( Palio di Siena ) in the main square, Piazza del Campo with about 50,000 people in attendance. Judging by the size of the piazza, this has got to be one huge outdoor loony bin. The race is just 3 laps around the public square and it’s not uncommon for jockeys to be thrown while making the sharp turns- but never fear – if a rider-less horse still comes in first, the district it represents will be able to fly it’s banner throughout all the districts to broadcast their championship until the next year’s race.
Rome
I met a guy from Israel while on a tour in Tuscany who had just come from Rome so when he learned that was my next destination, he shared his travel highlights. He recommended I pay particular attention to the spiritual energy that could be felt everywhere. Outwardly I was registering a smile but inwardly I was thinking this is what happens when you drop too much acid in the holy land. Never the less, I couldn’t wait to start crossing off some of my bucket list items like Vatican City, Sistine Chapel, St Peters Basilica, Colosseum, Roman Forum, Tivoli Gardens, and Hadrian’s Villa. Fast forward, my tour of the Vatican originated at the guide’s office which I had found easily from my apartment with google maps. However the tour ended at the Vatican for free time to explore on our own which was great but with a loss of an internet connection for directional aide, I had no clue about how to get back to my apartment. I knew if I could find the guide’s office I could retrace my steps to find my way back so I asked the guide how to get back to her office and her sage advice was to “follow the wall”. I’m walking in what feels like circles when this guy approaches me and says “the museum is that way.” Why museum??!! Why me??!! But I thought of my friend from Israel and decided to consider this a divine intervention and headed in the direction of museum. This led me to a recognizable spot and I knew exactly how to get to the tour’s meeting point and eventually back to the apartment. Spiritual magic? Interventions from the universe? All I know is that guardian angels were in abundance when I needed them during my time in Rome. Pretty damn cool.
Puglia
Ostuni was my home base while staying in Italy’s “heel”. As you approach the town from the road below it appears like a mirage of white sparkly light. Its “innards” contain narrow alleys, steep stairways, piazzas surrounded by restaurants and churches, and courtyards where white houses are accented with colorful doors and potted flowers and cactus. Unfortunately I couldn’t muster the courage to drive a car in Italy and found the public transportation system so inadequate and convoluted that visiting nearby towns was impossible. So I was kind of stuck here – which – if your forced to stay put somewhere isn’t too bad to take. It’s where the material girl, Madonna, chose to celebrate a special birthday – Italians travel to for fresh seafood and new musicians test their material in the town’s center. And not a franchise in sight.
Slovenia
Ljubljana
This is the capital of a “green” country with 60% of it covered in forest and a recipient of numerous awards for its sustainability practices to protect natural habitat ( affirmed by the over 1,000 bears lurking around.) A river runs through the city with 4 unique bridges that connect wide pedestrian streets on each side which are filled with cafes. The riverside market designed by Joze Plecnik (who’s the architect of practicality everything here) is a colorful, centrally located hub for social gathering between the Dragon bridge (pictured above) and Triple Bridge. The dragon is a major symbol for the city and part of its folklore. The tale finds Jason, hero of the Argonauts, returning home after finding the Golden Fleece and being confronted by a dragon at the mouth of the Ljubljana river. He courageously slayed the beast and thus became the first human to live in this area. One can definitely become a believer of fairy tales here.
Postojna Caves & Predjama Castle
This one of a kind Castle was built into a rock when security was obviously valued over comfort in the middle ages. Some of the rooms in the front are surprisingly spacious with incredible views but in the back it’s more like a cave with bats in residence. I toured this on the same day I visited the spectacular postojna caves. An underground train took us into this subterranean world of 2 million year old caverns and halls hollowed out by the Pivka River. Jaw dropping sparkly white stalactites shaped like icicles hang from the hall ceilings and the caves are used to host concerts due to the spectacular acoustics – can you imagine listening to music in there??!!
Lake Bled and Vintar Gorge
Legend has it that fairies created Lake Bled when they filled a grass pasture with water from nearby streams to make an island in the middle secure and safe for dancing under the stars at night. Motor boats are not allowed on this crystal clear lake and the only way to reach the island is on a pletna boat rowed by oarsmen ( pletnarstvos) whose skills have been passed down from generation to generation. The water is so warm that swimming it is also a popular way to get to the island. Nearby Vintar Gorge was recommended by my high school friend, Sarah, and I’m so glad she put this on my radar!!!It’s located in Triglar National Park and boardwalks along the Radovna River make this an easy and breathtaking walk. The water is crystal clear and changes colors from emerald green to aqua depending on how the light is hitting it. Occasionally the boardwalk takes you over the river so you are suspended among waterfalls shooting out rainbows. A magical trip through paradise!
Croatia
Plitvice Lakes
The lakes cover over 70,000 acres and make up Croatia’s largest and oldest forest preserve. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason. This place is gorgeous and entirely lives up to the hype. Walkways wind around and across a chain of 16 terraced lakes joined by waterfalls. I took the H loop from entrance 2 as recommended by my niece and hotel host which made all the difference for avoiding the crowds. It was a bit misty the day I was there ( and of course the sun came out with a vengeance the day I left ) however I think under any circumstances this place is nothing short of magical.
Split
In Split you’ll find the Diocletian Palace, home of Diocletian, a man born of slaves who became emperor and pharaoh and lived long enough to retire here (which was pretty uncommon given the average 2 1/2 years an emperor lived before being killed off by someone else wanting the throne) Old Town is a charming labyrinth of narrow alleys and courtyards- the People’s Square dominates as the town’s center and a stroll down the Riva at sunset affords beautiful views of the bay. Easy day trips to the Blue Cave, Vis, Hvar, and those with a yen for history, Salona, Klis, and the not to be missed Trogir, made for a whole lot of beauty and fun. Also Konoba is the name for traditional Dalmatian restaurants where you can get some great fish dishes.
Dubrovnik
Strolling the city walls of old town Dubrovnik is a must even for this gal who is afraid of heights! Incredible views and history await. One thing that struck me was the lack of panhandlers and or homeless on the streets- when I asked the guide about it he said that it’s the result of the mind set of the people here – they’d rather die of shame than beg for money or food. With a strong work ethic and moral code most figure out a way to survive rather than resort to theft or other forms of crime. He shared a great example of how much they admire people who work to take care of themselves – when a prostitute has to retire because she’s past her “prime” the government finds a single man to marry her to provide security for the rest of her life! Tourists are extremely safe here too as they don’t want to kill the golden goose – we’re the major economic industry due to the fact that large parts of Game of Thrones was filmed here.
Turkey
Istanbul
Toss together about 8,500 years of history, the influences of 3 empires -Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, the combination of Islamic and Mediterranean cultures and almost 17 million people and what do you get?? Crazy, colorful Istanbul. Pictured above in a partial view of the interior of the Hagia Sophia.
Cappadocia
This is where culture and the forces of nature have co-created a dream like geological wonderland of otherworldly beauty. It seemed destined to be matched with an equally fascinating human history that’s accented this landscape of magnificent valleys and fairy chimneys with incredible cavern architecture, fresco adorned rock cut churches, and subterranean cities.
Upper Greek House
Pictured above with me is childhood neighbor and friend, Judy. She and her husband John have made some unique and adventurous investments – like a farm in Ethiopia where they also own a travel agency and the Upper Greek House – this beautifully restored cave at the top of the village of Mustafapasa which is in the heart of Cappadocia. They were the first people to convert an old stone building into 16 rooms which are all individually decorated with local art, traditional carpets and unique turkish chandeliers. Terraces overlook the stunning landscape of Urgup and Cappadocia. They were inspired to establish the B&B after being invited to dinner by Suleyman Ozturk while vacationing there. Suleyman and his wife Emine own Old Greek House – one of the most famous restaurants in central Turkey. Every evening a feast of authentic dishes were prepared by Emine in the ground floor of their mansion which is accented with arches of color and a fireplace. Trust me, it doesn’t get better.
Antalya
This city is known as the gateway to Turkey’s Turquoise coast. Once a major Roman port it has some impressive ruins to visit if you can tear yourself away from the beaches. The old quarter, Kaleici, is made up of narrow winding streets lined with markets and old wooden shops that direct you down to the ancient but still active harbor with several restaurants serving fresh seafood. Pictured above is a beach resort on the outskirts of the harbor where you can also rent boat excursions.
Fethiye
I like to think of these as adult time out chairs. I had hit a benchmark of about 6 months travel when I came to this resort area in the middle of the turquoise coast and I decided to hit the pause button, park my backend in a lounge chair pool or beach side and relax. Great way to re-charge the batteries.
Ephesus
This ancient city reflects the history of a number of civilizations as the Mediterranean’s main commercial center. Paved streets wind past squares, baths and monumental ruins like the Library of Celsus pictured above. Mary, mother of Jesus, spent her last years nearby with St. John and you can also visit her home. Legend has it, that the Amazon female warriors originally founded the city and after falling to the rule of Lydian Kings, it became a place where women and men enjoyed equal opportunities. The Temple of Artemis, built to honor this goddess of the hunt, wild animals and wilderness, was the largest in the world. An earthquake buried the city which fortunately preserved a good deal of it…and the history of the sophisticated way of life of its citizens over thousands of years.
Israel
Tel Aviv
When I arrived at the Tel Aviv airport, I felt like I had walked onto the set of Fiddler on the Roof. Hasidic jews with side curls and yarmulkes were clustered everywhere making for a fantastic sight. I had arrived the day before Shabbat – a biblical day of rest which is celebrated from sunset on Friday to sunset on Saturday. My cab driver told me to expect most establishments to be closed and minimal traffic. He ( as is norm) would be eating delicious meals with friends and family after lighting candles and saying blessings. When the city is not involved in this “time out” it is an awesome “capital of cool” with colorful samplings of activity everywhere. Street artists make the walls beautiful with incredible graffiti, bustling markets like Carmel ( thanks for recommendation Mike! ) and Levinsky burst with earth’s offerings, toney neighborhoods like Nevek Tzedek offer glitz and glamor and the stunning beaches populated with beautiful people all contribute to a hipster vibe. The city has an entrepreneurial reputation and I met several men and women from the US here taking time off while negotiating deals with start ups. They joke that the official bird is a crane as construction of new buildings is a constant. Having only begin established as a state some 30 years ago, it’s seemingly adolescent energy is invigorating.
Jerusalem
I stayed at an airbnb right off the main street Emek Refaim in a wonderful neighborhood called the German Colony. The host’s father was the pilot of Sabena flight 571 which was taken hostage by 4 Palestinians in exchange for the release of 315 terrorists. It was his 50th birthday and her mother was also on board on their way to meet her for a celebration. Pilot Reginald Levy, was able to send a coded message to the authorities for help. He then told the hijackers the hydraulic system was disabled so that rescuers dressed like repairmen were able to board and fatally shoot two of the Palestinians and capture the others. My host told me that everyone I’d meet in Israel has been touched by a similar brush with terror because – well – it’s Israel. Ironically for however holy, it is a city of tension with both Jews and Palestinians contesting claim as to whose capital it is. Pictured above is the Tower of David in the old city where it is not safe to walk at night due to skirmishes among Jews, Palestinians and Arabs.
Biblical sites
Pictured above is Qaser Al-Yahud – the baptismal site where the Israelites crossed the river Jordan after wandering the desert for 40 years. In the Bible it is written that the Lord chose Jerusalem as a place he would dwell in forever. As a result, it is rich with significance as the place of King David’s headquarters, Solomon’s temple, where Jesus was tempted by Satan and the site of the crucifixion and resurrection. I visited Tiberas, Sea of Galilee, Nazareth, Masada, Jericho, Bethlehem, the walled old city of Jerusalem where the site of the Last Supper, Mount of Olives and wailing wall are located. Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian quarters are also located here. . I was struck by the similarities of Muslim, Islam, Christian religions – they all believe there is only one, all powerful god as a result of a virgin birth; that he sent profits to minister to the masses; uses angels as messengers, and that there’s life after death, with a heaven and hell. So what’s all the fighting about??!!
Jordan
Wadi Rum
Also known as the Valley of the Moon, this desert with red sand and gargantuan rock formations is about the size of New York City. It’s a favorite “set” for Hollywood movies that have anything to do with a Mars-like-landscape such as The Martian, Laurence of Arabia, The English Patient, Dune and Star Wars were also filmed here. Not only is it an other worldly landscape, it’s kind of a big open air library with thousands of rock carvings and inscriptions that go back 12,000 years. I toured the area in a 4 wheel jeep with a Bedouin driver who considered himself a movie star and made the ride more like a scene out of Mad Max. It was thrilling although my arms hurt for days from gripping the handle bars as tight as I needed to avoid bouncing out of the jeep. The day was capped with unique desert entertainment – a spectacular sunset that started with an azure blue sky which moved through amazing colors of soft blue, pale pink, brilliant orange and burning red before the sky went dark and the stars dazzled. I’ll take nature’s fireworks over mankind’s any day.
Petra
More than 2,000 years old, Petra was built by the Nabataians, who were welcomed upon arrival from Arabia which made them want to settle here. Ambitious and enterprising, their small trading operation grew to become the major trade route that dominated the market in frankincense, myrrh, spices and perfumes. As a result, they prospered, became very wealthy and lived in tranquility for thousands of years. The Treasury, pictured above, was built right into a stone wall to function as a major bank and lending institution. As you can see, it was intricately decorated by decorative carvings to form a magnificent facade. A major earthquake in 363 AD leveled most of the city and with increased competition for trade routes, by the 7th century the city was deserted except for local Bedouins who continue to live in the surrounding area.
Bedouins
These desert dwelling Arab nomads traditionally live in tents moving their herds across arid lands in search of grazing areas. Their diet is anything that walks and doesn’t require refrigeration. And lots of Bedouin tea. They call Israel and Jordan home but the ones I met in Jordan seemed a bit more cool and self sufficient than those in Israel whose shacks and goat pens along the freeways looked like what had been put together with scraps found in a dump. The dress for men is usually a long tunic, sleeveless cloak and distinctive headcloth ( kufiyya ) but most of them working the tourist trade like the one pictured above streamline their look with a t-shirt and jeans. I think, like Jack London, this one was answering the call of the wild.
Egypt
Cairo
Ahhhhh…Cairo where the lines distinguishing lanes on a road are merely a suggestion everyone ignores and cars compete with pedestrians, camels, tuk tuks, and donkeys for the right of way. Hard to believe this is the same civilization that created one of the ancient wonders of the world…the Great Pyramid of Giza. Built around 4,000 years ago for King Khufu, the first king to demand his wife, Henutsen be buried along side him, it’s considered an engineering marvel. 23 million blocks of stone were used to create it and since the wheel had not yet been invented, speculation persists that alien visitors lent a hand to complete it. The Great Sphynx in the foreground of this picture is believed to have the face of his son, King Khafre, attached to the body of a lion and carved from a single piece of stone.
Alexandria
I visited Alexandria with a tour guide and driver on the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday so it only seemed fitting that we conclude a day of seeing the sites with a spread at the guide’s favorite local seafood restaurant. As though the holiday had ordained it, we had one of those days where I felt “grateful” throughout. As the only person to sign up for this tour, I received a “custom” designed package of his favorite places all visited at our own relaxed pace. And no tourists or lines! And the real capper….this 35 year old guide was hit on while in a washroom after we ate dinner- he told me that she followed him in there and asked if I was from North or South America – indicating the Northern Americans were a bit slimmer. He told her he hadn’t noticed as he “preferred” to admire the bodies of local types. His suave sophistication ( or snake oil charm!)was rewarded with her phone number…he was elated since he confessed to being a bit shy when it came to meeting girls and was now going to celebrate this holiday of gratefulness I had told him about every year as its “blessings” did well by him!
Nile River
A four day cruise along the Nile River from Luxor to Aswan on a Dahabiya is added to Africa and the Algarve as top highlights of my travels so far. Because the Nile was the lifeblood of ancient Egyptian civilization, it’s banks are an open air museum of tombs and temples. I was joined by 4 other people who couldn’t have been a better “fit” for fellow explorers. An expert guide introduced us to the beautiful art, incredible inventions and superior achievements of this ancient and powerful civilization with stops at the Karnak and Luxor temples, Valley of Kings, Hatshepsut temple, Temple of Horus, Kom Ombo and Philae Temple. While not immersed in the rich history of stunning temples and monuments, the equally magnificent scenery along the Nile while cruising is breathtaking. A divine time.
Luxor
Pictured above is a statue of Ramses II in the great temple of Karnak. This place is amazing and huge! Ramses erected more statues ( mostly of himself ) and temples than any other pharaoh. He was quite popular as a warrior because of his ability to secure the borders of Egypt against the Hittites, Nubians, Libyans, and Syrians. He had about 200 wives and with them bore 96 sons and 60 daughters. He reigned for 60 years and died at the age of 90 – unheard of at that time and still an impressive achievement by today’s standards.
Aswan
Abu Simbel, pictured above, was also commissioned by Ramses II and took about 20 years to complete. It takes almost 3 hours to drive through the desert from Aswan to get there and is so worth it. The main temple has four colossal monuments on its facade that lead into sanctuary with more commanding statues. This place was built with such precision, that only two days of the year- February 22 and October 22 – do rays of light enter the temple, cross the main hall and illuminate the sun gods while keeping Plah, god of darkness completely in the dark. This timing is also aligned with the planting and flooding seasons which honored Ramses birth and fertility. A smaller temple next door honors Queen Nefertari, Ramses favorite wife, which has incredibly beautiful interior murals. The temple was moved from the Nile banks in 1968 when construction of the high damn threatened to submerge it in water.
Hurghada
Hurghada is on the Red Sea and and is apparently a diver’s paradise which I couldn’t affirm as the only diving I did here was into a dinner plate or breakfast special. The sea is such an unreal beautiful aquamarine that it almost looks liked it has been touched up with food coloring. I’m told that an algae grows in it and when dying, gives off a reddish brown color – hence the name for the sea. I stayed in Sultan Bay with a nearby village tailored for tourists ( think Disneyland for old fat people ) and a shuttle boat that takes you to Zeytouna Island’s beach which is a little more rustic but a great place to launch from to view coral reefs.
Thailand
Bangkok
Vibrant, colorful, loud, bustling, Bangkok provides an opportunity to practice some version of Buddhism on every street corner. The above picture was taken at what appeared to be a pop up temple at the corner of the street my hotel was located on. I was watching costumed people getting ready for a ceremonial parade when this woman asked me to take a picture of her before she put her mask on. I loved the similarities between her face and the mask – remarked on this and before I knew it, most of her fellow marchers asked me to take pictures of them too. It’s a generosity of spirit I encountered from most all I met- inspired by what appeared to be happy natures desirous to spread goodwill. If we could replicate this culture across the globe, we’d have a lot fewer problems! This outdoor temple was a beehive of colorful activity – people making offerings to a central, golden Buddha, others seeking atonement from temple dancers under a canopy while music and incense permeated the atmosphere. In Bangkok I could afford a 5 star hotel – which for me, was its own “practice” in goodwill! I may be one of very few who’s not already had every whim attended to in one of these places, but jeepers – it should be on everyone’s bucket list!
Grand Palace and Temples
The Grand Palace was initiated in 1782 by a king who wanted a residence suitable to his royal stature. The beauty and the detailed grandeur of the throne rooms and temples kept my jaw lodged on my chest. And just when I thought it couldn’t get much better, a wander through the grounds and on to see Wat Pho and it’s stunning mosaics and buddhas instilled a state of disbelief. If all good things come in three’s – this area confirms it as I then took a boat to cross the Chao Phraya River to have my socks knocked off at Wat Arun. But before doing that, I “fortified” with the best Thai food ever at one of the many little shacks along the river near the boat docks. Whatever you worship, you’ll be doing it in grand style with gratitude after a day like this – I guarantee it!
Floating Markets
This was one of the best experiences in Bangkok from my perspective. Hundreds of years ago, the rivers and canals that crisscrossed the city centers of Thailand were used for commerce by farmers who sold their goods from their small wooden boats. This tradition has been maintained in several floating markets – I visited Damnoen Saduak and Amphawa Floating markets by boat down canals that were crowded with vendors selling fruit and local foods from nearby orchards and farms. The “backdrop” includes old wooden stilt homes, shops, spirit houses, and temples. On the sidelines, stationary floating boats also act as makeshift restaurants serving all kinds of Thai delicacies…my guide developed a tasting menu for me which was kicked off with coconut ice cream served by a vendor in a boat passing by. The day concluded with a visit to the Maeklong Railway Market – the biggest seafood market in Thailand. To get fish to the populace as fresh as possible, officials decided to build a railroad straight through the market. Now, 8 times a day, merchants collectively and calmly move their belongings and umbrellas away from the tracks as the train barrels through – so close you can touch it!
Islands
I did a little island hopping and spent time in Phuket, Khao Lak, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Lanta, and Koh Lipe. Each island has a different vibe but in general, the days followed a wonderous routine. Wake up in comfy bed and open sliding doors to a deck overlooking the sea. Have breakfast in restaurant built like tree house in jungle or one that is right on beach. Head to beach and find lounge chair in perfect location – swim, snorkel, nap. Go to scheduled Thai massage ( they cost $15. an hour and it’s an exquisite torture of being twisted into a pretzel but body is puddle when time to go.) Wander over to bar and order cocktail with name that reads like short story. It’s happy hour so you get two drinks for the price of one and stay to watch sunset. Shower. Have a fabulous Thai dinner. Head back to room – catch up on email or my YouTube programs. Go to Sleep. Wake up next day and start all over again.
Chiang Mai
I took the scenic train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and while it was a 10 hour ride, was so glad I did this! The landscape offers up beautiful temples, lotus ponds, bucolic pastures worked by farmers, rice paddies with egrets, giant golden buddhas perched on hillsides, sunflower fields, jungles and jungle villages and my favorite, Lopburi, an ancient temple where hundreds of monkeys were running around freely ( I later looked it up and found it’s actually about 4,000 monkeys!) Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 and the old city still retains vestiges of walls and moats from it’s history of a cultural and religious center. The city has a laid back village like vibe and is surrounded by lush country side with no shortage of villages, parks, temples, and elephant sanctuaries. Wished I had scheduled a few more days here….
Chiang Rai
Pictured above is Wat Rong Khun – or the white temple as it is commonly referred to. Chiang Rai is home to thousands of temples but the most famous ones are this one, Wat Rong Suea Ten ( blue temple ) and the Black House (baan dam ) – and while not a temple, it feels like one. I had a superior guide who was an exceptional story teller and wove into his explanations of temple history his own interpretation of Buddhism philosophy. He’d come out the other side of a life of poverty and struggle. His family were refugees from China and brought their skills as opium farmers with them but because growing it in Thailand was illegal and they could not obtain citizenship. Life was a day to day effort to survive. He was sent to live in a temple to train to be a monk ( shelter and food the motivation). Years later a benevolent king granted land and citizenship to refugees and as he explains it, his life went from hell to heaven. He now supplements the family’s income from farming corn and rice with a salary as a tour guide.
Laos
Luang Prabang
This city is built on a peninsula formed by the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers and this, in and of itself, makes it a beautiful city but add to that its listing as a Unesco Heritage site preventing any kind of development and what do you get? A well preserved combination of Lao architecture and influences from the period of French colonialism. Numerous Buddhist temples ( the interior of one of the oldest, Vat Visoun pictured above ) a royal palace with exceptional murals, eye candy river walks, one of the best morning markets I’ve experienced, and monks who walk main street every morning collecting alms all add up to an enchanting experience.
Mekong River
I decided to enter Laos from Chiang Khong in Northern Thailand via a two day cruise down this mighty waterway and lifeline for millions of people. There’s lots of activity on the river to watch – fisherman casting their nets, women harvesting river weed, some panning for gold, water buffalo and cattle grazing on the banks along side children playing stick games. The river is flat and wide, bordered by the dramatic scenery of the mountains of Northern Laos and occasionally offset with roaring rapids caused by giant grey river rocks. Our boat was a family owned, open air wooden one with a kitchen where local produce was used to prepare delicious meals. Mid day we docked at the base of a steep climb to a village where children greeted us and escorted us to their home of rustic bamboo houses. Back on board we continue on to Pakbeng to stop for the night where I stayed at Le Grand situated on a hilltop with marvelous views of the river. After sunrise we continued on until we reached the Pak Ou caves which are filled with over 4,000 buddhas and a place of worship for hundreds of years. Following that our last stop is whiskey village famous for – you guessed it, a potent libation that results in quite a buzz/burn. The women are also known for their skills as weavers and the work is beautiful. We arrived in Luang Prabang late afternoon and were escorted to our respective hotels.
Kuang Si Waterfalls
This is a three tiered waterfall which falls into shallow pools that you can swim in. The water flows over limestone rocks which contain high levels of calcium carbonate that reflects light making the water a stunning turquoise blue color. A beautiful trail makes it easy to stroll by and really immerse yourself in nature. Signage contains educational conservation messages which I thought was really great – there’s also a bear rescue center which is home to about 20 Asiatic black bears; a butterfly park (managed by a Dutch couple!) The surrounding picturesque countryside of lush, green rice paddies was an equally beautiful preview of coming attractions as we drove to and from the falls.
Cambodia
Angkor Wat
This is the biggest religious complex in the world covering 400 acres. It was the royal center of a dynasty of Khmer kings who ruled the largest, most prosperous and sophisticated kingdom in Southeast Asia. It only took 35 years to build with the aid of 300,000 workers, 6,000 elephants and approximately 5 million tons of sandstone.
Ta Prohm
This jungle enveloped temple was built to function as a Buddhist monastery and university and was home to 12,500 people, 20 high priests and 600 dancers! 80,000 people lived in the surrounding villages to help service the site’s needs. It was my favorite due to the many trees that grow inside and around the structure giving it an eerie, mysterious quality….kind of a supernatural strangeness that made me feel spirits were hovering about eager to tell their ancient stories.
Bayon Temple
This temple is in the heart of Angkor Thom and is called the temple of many faces because of the 216 gargantuan mugs that smile down at you from its towers. On its walls are some extraordinary bas-reliefs telling the stories of daily life in the 13th century. The temple also has a lively vibe thanks to mischievous monkeys who have made it their home.
Vietnam
Hanoi
Crazy, chaotic Hanoi makes Bangkok look like a sleepy suburb by comparison – with 9 million people and 13 million scooters that don’t stop at red lights or pedestrian crossings when the light turns green, your best survival strategy is waiting for a local to cross and shadowing him or her with the hope that you make it to the other side alive. The pollution is so bad that it reminded me of the worst days in Sonoma during fire season. Everyone talks with the dramatic notch turned high at decibels that can shatter ear drums. So why did I love it here so much?? Because the old quarter streets are unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before…the bustle, the hustle, the extraordinary variety of daily activities, and character of the people conducting them is street carnival -maybe life – at it’s best. Stay open and an experience awaits you at every turn daring you to think with a new perspective – probably some kind of E ride in the dark side of Disneyland!
Halong Bay
A zillion years of wind and rain whittled away the softer parts of these mountains to leave only a hard core of limestone that now emerges from this emerald-colored bay. There are approximately 1,600 limestone pillars- earning it the title of one of the 7 new wonders of the world. I took a two-day cruise on a boat with an expansive upper deck that provided up close and immersive views of this spectacular landscape. It’s really quiet too with the exception of the occasional person who motors by with a boat laden with product to sell in the market. The trader is one of the 4,000 people who live in 3 century old floating villages tucked away in the bay – I’d love to have seen the villages – they’re apparently self sufficient – include homes, shops, schools and even police stations.
Ninh Binh
The waterways of this valley can be traveled by taking a traditional sampas boat which is paddled by an oarsperson ( female and male alike) with skills that have been handed down through the generations. Trang an grottos, caves, temples, pagodas, lush green mountains, lotus flowers and wildlife provide the entertainment as you sit back in these fabulous front row seats. And just as you are lulled into a sense of peace under the spell of the scenery, you’re rowed through caves so low that you have to put your head in your lap to pass through. No rest for the wicked! The trip lends itself to imaginative story telling with some ghostly temples and pagodas along the banks giving this an atmosphere of a bygone era of mystery and folklore. We also stopped at the ancient citadel and temple of Dinh Tien King who after subjugation of 12 warlords declared himself emperor and became the first to unite Vietnam – first on his “to do” list for establishing a country was fascinating – create a state government, then mint coins, develop trade exchanges, and restore a national culture. Basic formula, eh?
Sapa
High up in the Muang Hoa Valley are terraced rice fields which have been farmed by ethnic tribes (H’mong, Giay, Dao Do are largest) that have lived here for thousands of years. Trekking the region’s picturesque hillsides and villages is recommended as the best way to experience the area so I took the 4 hour walk on slippery, muddy paths along steep hillsides from Sapa to Ling Ho Hamlet and Ta Van Village. Fortunately I had the aid of two women about my age who functioned as walking sticks to keep me propped up. We passed along rivers and spectacular scenery dotted with water buffalos ( like the ones pictured) casually napping or munching grass from fields where children played. The two villages we visited were distinguished by the clothes worn by the tribes who lived there. Absolutely fabulous!
Cat Cat Village
My nickname in high school was “cat” so I guess it’s noteworthy that I spent my 70th birthday in a village with this moniker. It’s home to the H’Mong tribe and the “real” village of 80 households is a 45 minute walk up the slope of a hill. Cat Cat Village is about a ten minute scooter ride from Sapa. It’s considered a bit touristy but I thought of it as more of a well conceived playground for the ‘hood. It was a Sunday when I visited so this might have been the reason for the festivities as locals were dressed in the celebratory style of their tribes posing and laughing next to plenty of props like horses, swings, a river, and fire pits with professional photographers on hand. The atmosphere is party like and the smell of local food delicacies grilling filled the air. I was in snap happy heaven as everyone is flattered to be asked if they can be photographed. Not bad to stumble into a celebration like this on your birthday!
Quy Nhon
Vietnam was an alternative choice when I couldn’t get a Visa for entry into China and that old adage “when one door closes another one opens” was decidedly confirmed with this change of plans. Vietnam is a stunning country with wonderful people and exquisite cuisine. Part of my itinerary included a scheduled “break” on the central coast for a time out to book the next 3 travel months as well as catch up on this blog. Absent my trusty travel maps and relying only on the internet, I found Quy Khon which I thought was near Hoi An and Hue – 2 French colonial UNESCO sites I really wanted to see. When I arrived, I discovered I was about 6 hours away from these cities and was really bummed. However I am beginning to understand the universe may have different plans in mind for you and it’s best to go with the flow. Quy Nhon is off the tourist radar and thus offers authentic fishing villages, quiet beaches and a relaxed vibe. I had booked two weeks here and was getting restless the second week when a storm conveniently announced itself with thunderous claps and heavy downpours which made me glad to hunker in again, remain disciplined and get some work done. Pictured above is the view from the deck of my hotel room where waves ( and if you look closely a stubborn fisherman ) crash against the rocks. My lengthy stay earned me queen bee status and by the time I left I had been honored to have been privy to the life stories of most of the staff giving me a much more meaningful understanding of local lifestyles and aspirations.
Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City
When the Americans withdrew from Southern Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh forcefully reunited the country and kind of stuck it in this region’s face by re-naming the capital city Saigon, after himself. But as the guides and locals are quick to inform you – you can change the name of the city but you can’t change the people’s name for it – and in their minds – it will always be Saigon. Can’t change the American influence either apparently. There are sky scrapers here, billboards selling American products in English, and more than a couple of people look like they may be a soldier’s offspring. And there’s the repugnant aspects as told in the War Remnants Museum. Pictured above are apartments that were built by the U.S. for soldiers to live in during the war – now at $300 a month, up to ten people live in a one bedroom to make it affordable. Guides also want you to know how much they resent communism by repeatedly reminding you that 75% of the people practice Buddhism with the “bottom” ( their term) 25% communism. They also let you know that each house is required to have a picture of Ho Chi Minh in it and that periodic inspections are conducted to ensure this… that spies are dressed as monks to watch for subversion and field workers required to sing songs that praise Ho’s leadership. I whispered to another guy in our group from the Czech Republic that I was surprised this guide was taking so many risks speaking like this to people he didn’t know. He agreed but said it was probably important to him to speak his truth. He could relate in a meaningful way since his father, now in Ukraine, remembers what life was a like before their country broke from Communist rule in 1990 and is terrified that if the Russians win, they’ll go back to a life that was devoid of hope or free will. If you need a reality check MTG and Tucker – go live in a communist country before you protest American aide to fight for democracy.
Mekong Delta
Our guide bemoaned the fact that Vietnam did not have the tourist infrastructure Thailand did but from my observation, they’re doing a pretty good job of catching up. Take for example this tour of the Mekong Delta – it began with a five stop hustle – the first is supposed to be a honey farm where you are told you will see the inside of a villager’s home, learn more about rural life and then sample the products of his and the bee’s labor. In reality, it’s manufactured shell of a home to give you an idea of what one “may” look like. After this we were marched to a restaurant where we were served honey tea with a honey cookie and before you can take your first bite, hawked related products for purchase. Following this we were given the opportunity to hold a python for a fee based photo opt. Next stop-a large pavilion where we were “treated” to traditional music as troubadours walk from table to table screeching songs before assembling as a group to burst out “If your happy and you know it” and plunk down a tip box. We proceed to the coconut candy making factory to watch demonstrations of the culinary skills that go into the production of this confection before the pitch to purchase. Finally…we get to the canals for the advertised portion of this tour and climb into the sampas to be rowed down the river. That’s way cool and afterwards a sumptuous lunch of fresh food and Vietnam delicacies satisfies. Upon completion there’s free time for feeding crocodiles at a fee that probably covers the price of lunch! Thank god I was with a great group of 6 other people who shared my black humor and laughing about this as we participated ironically made it one of my most fun days!
Phu Quoc
All paths lead to serenity on this beautiful Vietnamese island off the Cambodian coast in the Gulf of Thailand. ( how’s that for your Asian triangle?) A little over 50% of Phu Quoc has been designated a national park so there’s plenty of opportunities to hike through native tropical jungle and mountains to experience the wild (which I learned about from my lounge chair). The beach sand is fine and soft and the water so warm that beach waves felt like the tickling toes of a gentle play fellow. A sun deck was built over the ocean that allowed you to jump off it into the ocean’s natural “pool” and climb back up the deck’s ladder after your swim. Only 40 people are allowed to stay in this eco resort making me feel at times like I was on a deserted island – the kind that comes with a comfortable bed, room service, and warm shower.
India
New and Old Delhi
If this is the “heart” of India, then a pacemaker is definitely in order. This city seems to thrive on high energy and chaos. I was told that in terms of population, Delhi competes with Tokyo for the highest number of peeps. From my experience, a balance between being open with a high level of wariness comes in handy with a majority of its residents. Many people I encountered engineer some pretty creative tactics to take your money and the trouble is that while the usual suspects are immediately identifiable, others take you off guard with their innocent smiles and sweet gestures of kindness. Navigating here requires keeping your wits, learning to say no firming, and always double checking prices. That said, this country is like a glittering high speed circus – there’s so much to watch, so much unbelievable “never seen that before” life bursting from every nook and cranny that I found my head swiveling like a top. And the beauty. Monuments built by dynasties to show legitimacy and power are now architectural wonders. And markets like Chandni Chowk where the heart of the city pulses – the smell of spices, the delicious street food, the people and colorful culture are fantastic. You need a guide here like you do in most of India and I traveled by rickshaw and foot with a guy who was born here – makes a big difference in how you “see” stuff through a local’s eyes
Agra
People come from all over the world to see the Taj Mahal which immortalizes the undying love of a man for his wife. Because of all the hype that the monument has generated, I was a bit jaded and began my visit with low expectations. However this truly is of unparalleled grandeur – pinkish in the morning, milky white in the evening and golden under the moon, it defines romantic. Only the very best in the world were commissioned to design, build, and decorate it which contributes to its artistic genius. It’s simply “marble-ous”. Agra Fort (where son imprisons dad but considerately gives him a view of the Taj so he can continue to adore his wife from afar) and Fatehpur Sikri are also spectacularly beautiful – leaving me to wonder how such a magnificent civilization could be reduced to its current third world status now??
Jaipur
In 1876 the city was painted pink to welcome Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, and to this day the buildings retain a dusty pink hue making India’s “pink city” seem like a blushing bride or in a perpetual state of spring. I arrived a day before Holi – a national Hindu festival that celebrates the triumph of good over evil. It is an occasion to unite, discard differences, forget resentments and open your heart. It is also referred to as the festival of color and spring where everyone, in a spirit of joy, spreads color on each other’s faces as an expression of love and wish for happiness. (you can also get drenched in colored water). My hotel recommended a place hosting a celebration especially designed for tourists so I went and after 15 minutes of watching other white people dance in some kind of fabricated duplication of the festival, I decided I’d rather experience the real thing with Indians. I walked out, found a tuk tuk driver, explained what I wanted, and as luck would have it, he responded “hop in”! He took me to alleys of neighborhoods where we met people of all ages dancing and singing with carefree abandon. And here’s the best part – they all welcomed me into their parties – offered me drinks ( people have social sanction to get intoxicated on bhang during the festival) hugged, danced and laughed with me. You must ask for permission before you put color on another person’s face and let’s just say I was a rainbow when I got back to the hotel. It was beautiful. I felt the love! Happy Holi!
Jodhpur
Jodhpur is known as the blue city because in the older neighborhoods everyone paints their homes blue. The reasons for this are varied – some say the color of blue is associated with Lord Shiva who swallowed a poison to save the planet but it turned his neck blue and thus became the scared color of the Brahmins – the highest caste. So a blue house became a status symbol. Then it turns out that the ingredients of the paint- copper sulfate and limestone- act as a natural deterrent to termites and other pests so sacred made way for practicality. Add to that – light blue reflects the scorching heat of summer and has a calming effect. This is a view of the city at the foundation of Mehrangarh Fort and right behind Jaswant Thada. I stayed near the Jodhpur’s Sardar market which felt like a movie set in the late afternoon- it’s so alive with staged activity.
Jaisalmer
This is the smallest city I visited while in Rajasthan and is near the Pakistan border and surrounded by desert. It’s dubbed the golden city because of the abundant yellow sandstone used for buildings which glow a golden light when the sun shines on them. Pictured above is Bada Bagh – a royal crematorium back in the day. I had the run of the place practically to myself – only two other tourists there – which was delightful. I stayed in Jaisalmer Fort which was a lot of fun – no one is allowed to live there except the generations of the original residents and since they can’t sell the homes to anyone, most of the ones with any money have converted their old homes into hotels keeping with the original fort design. Staying within the fort gives you a chance to wander its alleys in the early morning when the city is waking up – really beautiful.
Udaipur
Also known as the city of lakes, Udaipur is absolutely enchanting. And I almost didn’t go because there are no direct modes of transportation from Jaisalmer ( like 3-5 hour layovers by bus, train or plane ) But my hotel guide talked me into taking the “sleeper” bus – you board a bus at 6pm and arrive at 4:30 am – it’s a bit of a trip trying to sleep in the “cabins” you are assigned but when I arrived tuk tuks are waiting to take you to a hotel. We actually arrived early so I had to wake up the hotel receptionist at 4am for permission to sleep in the lobby until the sun came up. So glad I came here!!!! It’s more upscale than the other cities- doesn’t have as much ( if any ) litter on the streets as the other cities and not as much free roaming animals. The lovely lakes are hemmed in by lush hills making this a vision of white, blue, and green. The City Palace is probably the most beautiful I’ve seen.
Kochi
There’s a subtle shift in geography and culture when you land in Kerala – southern India. It’s very tropical here and very green. Kochi is a major harbor and was the first European port in India- originally established by the Portuguese who were defeated by the Dutch who then traded it to the British for Indonesia. It’s divided into two sections – the old fort kochi which really doesn’t exist anymore and the Mattancherry side where locals live. Colonial influences are still present like the above “laundromat”. The Vannans have been working here since the 17th century when the Dutch brought them to clean their soldier’s clothes. In addition to stalls where women and men clean clothes, there’s a field called the world’s largest “dryer” with rows and rows of fabrics rustling in the wind on lines to dry. After my guide showed me this, I asked him if he also lived in this area and he told me he had been born and raised here. I asked if we could ditch the organized tour in favor of his showing me his favorite places…and hooray – he agreed! Off we went in his tuk tuk down narrow alleys to meet his friends who still make spices the traditional way, local fisherman and their chinese fishing nets, families who specialize in making pappadam, a fabulous Indian bread, candle makers for the church, jew town and the school and beach of his youth. Fabulous day.
Munnar
Munnar has been called the most beautiful place in India and while that seems a bold claim, I’m kind of in agreement. It’s a hill station known for its tea plantations and estates which roll over the mountains like a lush green carpet. The hills are so high they seem to touch the clouds and lakes, trees, and flowers dot the landscape as though inspired by a master artist. Wildlife are abundant here too although I only saw a langur and some monkeys. I was told to come back in September after the Monsoons – the rains make the grass so high that elephants and tigers come to the road side to eat. Personally, I’d skip the tourist spots like Echo Point, Kundalay lake etc. and just get a guy to take you by jeep for Munnar views on your way to the highest tea plantation in the world – Kolukkumalai. The road up is a cliff hanger but it’s stunning and you’ll see lots of local life on the way – like tea trimmers. Want some inspiration? Watch a 60 plus year old woman climb up the steep hills with a bag of tea leaves balanced on her head!
Alleppey
The backwaters of Alleppey are exceptional!!! I did two different day tours on a Shikara boat down the canals that flow from the Abrabian Sea. In addition to being surrounded by rice paddies, coconut, mango, and banana trees, you witness local life on the canals. Women washing clothes, men fishing, clam divers, duck herders ( yes – like out on the range when herding cows – on water, it’s ducks! ) produce sellers, construction workers and children playing. It’s peaceful too – birds chirp, wind blows on your face, and passing boats silently glide through the water managed by an assortment of weather worn characters. One tour included a stop to walk through one of many villages that have been located here for centuries and a restaurant on a bay – so remote, I was the only one there but have to say it was some of the best food I’ve had in India. Fresh cooked fish and rice were served on a banana leaf with savory sauces and I was shown the Indian way of eating with your fingers. I stayed here a few days before heading to Kovalam, a laid back coastal town with some very interesting beaches and a boardwalk ala India style.
Australia
Perth & Fremantle
This is a view of Perth’s stunning city sky line and Swan river from Kings Park Botanical Gardens. Perth is the ultimate combination of city and nature. The population is just 2 million and it’s spread out so you never feel “crowded” like you do in other large cities. A multi billion dollar investment from the government back in 2016 has revitalized areas like the waterfront Elizabeth Quay. Everything is so clean and tidy – and with a relaxed vibe from warm and friendly people I felt safe at all times – even late into the evening. Another thing – all the trams and buses within the city are free; all the barbeques in the parks include free gas to fire up the barbie, signs post a helpline for injured animals and don’t get me started on the healthcare benefits that are available for free. Charming Fremantle is about 30 minutes away via a clean and efficient train (what’s not to love about a town that has a cappuccino strip ) and you can get your nature fix by going to Rottnest Island to see Quokkas – the happiest animal on earth.
Adelaide
I came to taste wines in the famous regions of Adelaide: Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Glenelg, Hahndorf and the Adelaide Hills. Not only was it autumn – the best time of the year to taste wines in my view- I discovered a “hop on and off” van that provides you with 10-12 wineries to choose 4 from – you’re given an hour at each of them before the van driver, and after the second round of tasting, my new best friend, comes to pick you up for the next cellar door. There are only 8 people on the van which makes it easy to get to know each other so when you get back on board you can compare notes regarding the places visited. It’s absolute heaven and I don’t know why wine regions in California do not have this service!!! The city of Adelaide is fun too – while packed with atmospheric history and nautical sass, it wasn’t always so tourist friendly. In fact, its shady past earned it the nickname of Port Misery due to the inevitable shenanigans taking place in rowdy bars inhabited by “wharfies”. Containerisation put their dock work to an end leaving the buildings empty but ironically preserving them for the “re-do” that gives the city a plethora of character. Weirdly, I remember drawing pictures of Montana when I was a kid and when arriving in Bozeman, had this strange sensation that I had been there before. The same thing happened in Adelaide – several moments of deja vu begged the question – have I been here before in a previous incarnation?
Melbourne
Pictured above is not an optical illusion – it’s an example of the street art you find in Melbourne’s Laneways – pedestrian thoroughfares dripping in everchanging art created by the colorful personalities who make up the underground art scene. You can hook up with one of these artists for a tour of some of the lanes and an insider’s knowledge on just about everything associated. I felt like I got one of the best – he was an incredibly entertaining gossip and by the time our walk was over, I felt like I knew this community and its hidden bars and restaurant life really well. Melbourne also prides itself on being the foodie capital of Australia and the choice of eateries is overwhelming ( even Lee Ho Fook – the famed restaurant of Werewolves of London is here!) They also boast the best coffee in the world with over 840 cafes to prove it. If you like an early cuppa and people watching, hit Degraves Street. You’ll feel like you’ve “bean” to heaven.
Sydney
Sydney is a wonderful walking city with plenty of parks and clean, history filled streets. It was originally the dumping ground for British convicts (most of whom were locked up for stealing food to feed their family) and Irish political prisoners (most of whom were rebelling against British rule) for an ancestry that contributes to a current day population of scrappy individuals. That incredible skyline frames the wharf which is referred to as the Rocks and is filled with a several hundred year old pubs for people and bird watching. I was there when the city hosts its “Vivid Light Festival” which is so incredible, it makes Las Vegas look like an intern in training. The Blue Mountains makes for an incredible day tour and if your looking for a nearby nature fix, take the Bondi to Bronte coastal walk – it is fantastic!!!
Port Douglas
I think this is where nature may have decided to strut all her “stuff” for one stop shopping by putting the world’s oldest rainforest right next to the great barrier reef – two of the most beautiful and unique wonders of the world. While there, a “to do” list included strolling the magnificent 4 mile beach, trips to the reefs, both the low isles and outer reef Mackay Cay, tours of Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation, a dream walk through Mossman Gorge, strolling Macrossan Street lined with incredible restaurants and hanging out in the historic wharf area. And the variety of birds here! I’m talking flocks of parrots flying overhead or cockatoos spread over a park. The variety is unbelievable!
Byron Bay
Byron Bay made me feel like I had time traveled back to my college town, Chico. Its got a laid back, relaxed, hippie vibe with the kind of bookstores that have creaky wooden floors, ivy plants hanging down from the shelves, incense in the air and Joni Mitchell or equivalent music playing. The granola is homemade and organic and is served by either a surfer dude or young woman wearing crystals with a scrubbed face and ready smile. There are more yoga teachers per square mile than any other part of the country. The stunning beaches and rainforest are well cared for and at this time of the year about 48,000 whales cruise by headed toward the great barrier reef breeding grounds. I went up to the lighthouse several times to watch the parade – once a group of surfers all huddled to let four swim past in perfect synchronicity! The photo above is from a tour I took on the water – our marine biologist guide told us that when a whale hears the vibrations of a pleasant exclamation from people after its first breech, they’ll do it again and again sensing that it is pleasing their audience. Love in the air!!!
Alice Springs
Alice Springs is a great base from which to explore the West MacDonnell Mountain Range and its spectacular landscapes, Simpson’s Gap, Standley Chasm, (pictured above) Ochre Pits, Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek Bighole. Alice Springs Desert Park is also really wonderful with a cinematic documentary that gives you a sense of the adventurous spirit and cultural significance of Australia’s red centre. Plus there’s a really cool walk through this botanic wonderland that provides opportunities to get up close to the animals of the outback. I extended my stay in Australia to visit this place primarily because someone on a tour had told me about the kangaroo sanctuary here – a rescue center for the joeys inside the pouch of a killed kangaroo from an automobile accident. Her pictures convinced me this was a must see (and it is) but I really wish I had scheduled more time for this area – for example, missed Uluru- Kata Tjuta National Park where sleeping under the stars is apparently a game changer. “Next time” has become my Australian mantra.
Koalas
Moonlit Sanctuary in Melbourne is designed to represent bushland habitat and is home to one of the largest collections of Australian wildlife. Inhabitants look really well cared for….for example, there are thousands of types of Eucalypts but koalas only have a taste for a few varieties so these picky eaters sleep most of the day to conserve their energy. This was the first time I saw them actively eating and even running around on the ground! All the animals here have been rescued not “caught” for display and it’s fantastic to watch kangaroos, wallabies, wombats, colorful birds and dingoes roaming in well designed natural habitats and their forever homes.
Joey
When the desert grasslands dry up kangaroos head to the side of roads where grass still grows from the moisture released from exhaust pipes of passing vehicles. As a result, “Moms” are frequently hit and killed but their babies can survive in the pouch for about 4 days. Enter Kangaroo Dundee aka Broiga who lived in the bush in a tin hut with a mission to save joeys orphaned by highway accidents. Thanks to a documentary about his work and subsequent donations, he has built a 188 acre sanctuary with a hospital so that rescued joeys can be raised and eventually released back into the wild. Sunset tours are hosted so you can meet these adorable creatures. He’s a total character and the whole experience is such a treat – that’s Pricilla pictured – whom I cuddled for a bit. A few of these joeys come to love their human caretakers so much that they can’t be released because they’ve lost their wariness of the bad actors like hunters. I’m bettin’ Pricilla might be a lifer!
Penquins
This was one off the most amazing wildlife experiences I have ever had. Phillip Island is home to the largest Little Penquin colony in the world. At sunset you can watch these seabirds waddle home from the ocean with catch about twice the size of their weight including pilchards, krill, squids and other small fish. They are headed back to their burrows to feed their chicks whom you can hear hungerly calling for them. Boardwalks provide an opportunity to discreetly walk along side them and watch them arrive home to interact with the chicks who have been waiting outside the burrows for “mom” and “dad”. The awesome magic of nature never gets old or disappoints. Philp island is also home to thousands of seals (and consequently a large number of sharks) is habitat for the wallaby (they’re everywhere) and the Cape Barren Goose with their striking yellow green bill who mate for life and travel in pairs.
Wombat
These adorable chubs are native to Tasmania and eastern Australia but now critically endangered and considered one of the rarest mammals in the world. They excavate burrows in well drained soils by digging with their long claws on their forelegs, pushing out the dirt with their back legs and then rolling on their sides to smooth out the sides of the walls. A fun fact – their poo is cube shaped due to a digestive process which takes about 14 days to absorb all nutrients and water thus creating scat that is dry and compacted. Like beavers, their teeth are continuously growing so they need to gnaw on bark or roots to wear down their teeth.
Dingo
These guys like to eat wallabies, kangaroos, rodents, rabbits, birds and reptiles and the occasional baby if you believe Meryl Streep. They are so cute, it’s hard not to resist the urge to pet them. I only saw them safely protected in habitat enclosures so any temptation to do that was curbed. They are related to the Asiatic wolf and typically howl rather than bark – one of their biggest threats is hybridization with feral dogs.
New Zealand
Queenstown
This is the place to inspire the human spirit. From the moment I arrived and deplaned, I was thunderstruck with the spectacular and dramatic scenery. It was originally a gold miner’s camp and given the beauty of the location, one fella turned to another and said, “this place is fit for a Queen” and the name stuck – Queenstown. In Africa I was called mama (every women over the age of 18 is considered a mother) in Greece, lady (as in what da ya want lady?) In New Zealand you become a luv or a darlin’ (as in what can I do for you luv) and that suits as I was unabashedly smitten with this part of the country immediately. Apart from putting sliced beets on their hamburgers, I can’t find any fault with Kiwi’s. From the prettiest town in the world for fall colors, Arrowhead; to Glenorchy and Paradise, film locations for middle earth magic in Lord of the Rings; to some of the best savignon blancs in Gibbston Valley; to Milford Sound and the Fiordlands you’ll find it easy to have the “good day” everyone wishes you upon greeting.
Dunedin
This is one of the views from Larnach Castle in Dunedin’s harbor just past Port Chalmers and on your way to Taiaroa Head. The head is the largest breeding ground in the world for the Royal Albatross whose wing span of about ten feet makes them look like they are swooping about in drunken loops. They’ll spend 80% of their life out at sea only returning to the colony to breed every two years. It’s always with the same male bird as they mate for life. I took a boat out to watch them fly with the added bonus of seeing fur seals sun on rocks and one particular character out at sea having a leisurely lunch of fish he or she smashed on its chest before devouring. Another unique breed is Dunedin’s yellow eyed penguins who always return to where they were born. I guess this place gets under their skin too. The lovely Otago Peninsula.
Christchurch
Pictured above is a portion of Mt Cook near Lake Tekapo which is just about an hour outside Christchurch. I came up with a new word for describing the sheer majesty of nature when in New Zealand – “obscenery” – scenery so beautiful it is just obscene and this area fits that bill perfectly. Christchurch is no slouch either when it comes to looks – for starters, the Otakaro Avon River runs through it and along its banks are stunning landscapes and gardens. The city was devastated by an earthquake in 2010 and they’ve rebuilt or replaced damaged or destroyed areas with riverside markets, refurbished historic buildings and streets like New Regent which are easily explored by a hop on and off tram run by colorful and saucy conductors.
Nelson, Picton, Wellington
I fired a serious misstep when scheduling my time in this area – first I decided to make Nelson my basecamp because it’s near Abel Tasman National Park, one of the chief reasons I wandered this way. Add to that I thought its backyard also included the Marlborough wine region which has some world famous classics. However while there, it poured rain so heavily that water levels broke records making the sail to the park and walk along its beaches impossible. I also discovered the wine region was only about an hour and half by car but 3 hours with public transportation thus impractical for a day trip. My one night stay over in Picton to catch the ferry to Wellington would have benefited from a longer stay as I’d made fast friends with “Ruby”, the town’s shuttle driver who let me know she’d take me anywhere for a “deal”. There also were plenty of tours from there to my desired wine regions and Blenheim (which could also been a wonderful place to stay as well for the wine regions) so I pouted a bit during my stay. But the ferry was really fun and Wellington’s Cuba Street and museum, Te Papa with its history of the natural environment and Maori and Pacific culture, started to make up for the screw ups. Into every life a little rain must fall, eh?
Napier
In 1930 an earthquake registering 7.8 on the Richter scale reduced all but a few buildings of this seaside city to rubble in 2 1/2 minutes with fires destroying much of what remained. The earthquake also pushed up a seabed 3-6 feet creating a blank canvas of new land from which to rebuild the city. Since it struck during the great depression, hundreds of men were available for work and 160 buildings were constructed between 1931 -1933 taking cues from Art Deco – the era’s architectural trend. In the 60’s a developer demolished one of the “outdated” art deco banks in favor of the more modern glass and aluminum look. Thousands came out to protest and as a result, The Art Deco Trust was established, 120 buildings of those original 160 remain, and the streets are lined with pastel colored store fronts making this the largest concentration of art deco buildings in the world. The city’s Marine Parade allows one a gorgeous walk along the Pacific Ocean – a perfect combination of nature and human ingenuity for creating an uniquely beautiful and memorable experience.
Matamata
Those of you who know I named my dog Sam because of my obsession with the movie, Lord of the Rings, will not be surprised that a tour of the Hobbiton movie set was a must for my NZ itinerary. Peter Jackson transformed 12 acres of the Alexander sheep farm into the pastures of the Shire complete with hobbit holes and the infamous green dragon inn. The attention to detail is amazing – I expected Bilbo Baggins to poke his head out of a door at any moment and invite me in for 2nd breakfast. As Sam reminded Frodo – “there’s some good in this world… and that’s worth fighting for.” About an hour away from Matamata are the Waitomo Glowworm Caves where nature offers up a little movie magic too. A galaxy of thousands of tiny living lights, courtesy of the glowworms, light up the walls and ceilings of the caves creating the silent ambiance of a starry, starry night. There are two levels to the caves – the upper contains stunning stalactites about 3 million years in the making for walking through and the lower stream beds for a boat ride guided by the descendants of the Maori chief who first discovered the caves.
Rotorua
This thermal wonderland smells a bit like rotten eggs but you get used to it in a couple of days and begin to appreciate how these geothermal resources are used in everyday life by the Maori. Many families build their homes on top of a steaming area to stay warm in the harsh, cold winters. Communal baths in “hot tubs” also function as a great treatment for arthritis, lumbago and rheumatism. Food is steamed underground and quite moist and tasty! A select pool is used for sterilizing linens and baby’s nappies and the mud pools bubble up with a unrefined crude oil that can be skimmed and used to light lanterns. But most wonderful, from my perspective, are the colors of these pools – minerals in the water refract sunlight to create colors like lime green, pinks, oranges and blues. Pictured above is Champagne pool in Wai O Tapu. It’s the largest hot spring in NZ with bubbles caused by carbon dioxide to earn its name. A complimentary rainbow (in the upper right corner of the photo) adds an accent to this spectacular show.
Hahei
That’s Hahei Beach pictured above and pretty much what it looks like all day long at this time of the year – deserted. Hahei is a small beach town on the Coromandel Peninsula and its other claim to fame is the spectacular Cathedral Cove and marine preserve, Whanganui A Hei. The drive from Auckland along the river in Waihi Gorge is a prelude to coming attractions of landscape that does not disappoint. But the real beauty for me was just hangin’ in this town – it’s the kind of place where everybody owns a dog, people wave as a reflex when you pass by, doors are left unlocked and hitchhiking is an acceptable and safe mode for getting around. On 3 separate occasions locals offered to drive me somewhere when they learned I was without a car. There’s only 4 eating establishments – a pub that serves pizza and local brews; a bistro run by two Argentinian brothers who serve up divine beef; a cafe which makes some of the best breakfasts I’ve had on this trip (all produce locally sourced of course) and a trailer that offers a long black with real cream. Since it’s a small town packed with friendly people, you’ll run into the same folks at all these joints and begin to get invitations to join them for meals. Sort of like a Norman Rockwell painting come to life.
Auckland
Auckland is referred to as the “city of sails” because about a third of the population owns a boat. But I think they “missed the boat” with this nickname because it should be called the city of “pockets”- remember when you’d pull a jacket or coat out of the closet that you hadn’t worn in awhile and dig in the pockets to find a missing key or extra money? – that’s what this place is like – dig in and you find so many surprises tucked in side streets representing the character and personalities of its diverse city dwellers. There’s Karangahape Road in Uptown where lone strollers talking aren’t necessarily carrying an IPhone and tattoos can be gotten cheap; Takapuria Beach where the wealthy reside; Britomar, the hipster’s hangout; Viaduct Market (pictured above from Soul Bar) for partyers; the Wynyard quarter for fish market finds and casual wharf squatting, Devonport for a fishing village vibe and Waiheke (or wine island) if you want to try fantastic wines with drop dead views. And the Lanes like Vulcan, Imperial or Fort offer distinct arty and creative shops. Or the roof top bars with their sophisticated scene. The students in the parks, locals and tourists co-mingling at ferry buildings on the wharfs of commercial bay – make the city a stage for extraordinary people watching.
Back To California Dreamin'
San Francisco
I landed in San Francisco on July 8, 2023. When you look up the word adventure in the dictionary its definition reads: an unusual and exciting, typically hazardous experience, a risky undertaking of unknown outcomes, especially the exploration of unfamiliar territory. Not that I’m qualified in the least to challenge Merriam Webster but as for hazardous and risky, my adventure always came with warning signs for trouble ahead and by “listening” I was always guided out of harm’s way. I have a deep belief that the universe holds you in its hands if you’re up for it – all you have to do is tune into this divine goodness (despite the static that surrounds us) and trust and faith will keep revealing this force to you in the most unexpected and miraculous ways. Pictured above is the farmers market at the ferry building near fisherman’s wharf where colors blur like a renegade rainbow – the best way California could have said welcome home….I’d found my pot of gold.
Valley of the Moon
After a few days in San Francisco I came home to Sonoma. A full moon, deer and rabbits greeted me while I sat on the deck and let the “return” sink in. I’ve had tea in a temple, danced to an Irish fiddle band, eaten street food in a lot of cities around the globe, let birdsong get city noise out of my ears, took rides where the driver’s jaw muscles ticked the whole time, and laughed in numerous languages. Felt the sheer joy of “going” rather than getting there and the sensation of the wildness that lives in all of us. I’ve learned that about the only thing you can control is choosing which path to take to a particular destination – what happens along the way is entirely up to chance….and that’s where all the fun lies. As a fellow traveler in Africa told me, “the perfect martini should be made by filling a glass with vodka and then pointing it in the general direction of the next horizon.”
Tahoe
The list of what needs to be done to reassume life as it was prior to travel is an affirmation of priorities. I’ve been pulled back by the invisible tethers of the places I missed such as Tahoe and the square in Sonoma as well the familiarities of treasured people connections. That refrain in a song by Sting “the Russians love their children too” always stuck with me and I think I understand why now. The world has its share of goons and creeps but by and large, there’s a lot of decency and goodwill out there – the number of people with shared aspirations for happiness, who take pleasure from kindness and an appreciation for beauty out number the cynics, haters and thieves. Maybe like a girl who can’t punch out, I’m still trying to attach meaning to the experience. Exchanges keep bubbling up to my consciousness – the most memorable is the one I had with a guide from India after we’d spent the day touring tea plantations together. As he was about to drop me at my hotel he said ” happy to have been seen by you” – I corrected him by saying “I think you mean “happy to see or meet you”. He responded “no – I think you see me – and that makes me happy”. Affirmation of my priorities simply summed.